ArsenalProAudio

Which subs have the tightest possible transients? Because I listen to alot of metal and so far I have been recommended to either find the old discontinued Rockford Punch HX2s or to go with Alpine subs for the tightest response for that double bass kick machine gun blast beat stuff in metal.

Some review on the Type X subs said the following:

While these subs aren't quite as responsive as lower wattage subs, they still outperform the large majority of smaller subs on the market. If you don't know, the lower the wattage, the easier it is for a subwoofer to respond quickly to bass hits, meaning that it is capable of producing better bass clarity, especially during quick repetition hits. A much larger wattage sub flexes too far to come back into position in time for quick response to bass hits. This is something that has caused some difficulty in the car audio industry as it means you can either have clarity or power, but rarely can you have a whole lot of each. You have to sacrifice one to have the other, at least to some degree. This is why many choose not to go above 600 watts peak power, because this is where the quality begins to disappear with most speakers.

Any helpful suggestions would be highly appreciated.

And also, should I run each sub with its own dedicated amp from two 1501bd amps I own at 4ohms for the best SQ at 4 ohms? or should i just use one 1501 to over power them at 2 ohms with the gain down? since at that point dynamic range would be good from over powering i was told.

thanks

ArsenalProAudio

Or do JL subs have the tightest possible transients?

JohnnyRock1588

iTrader: (22)

i think your a little off target focusing on brands and such although some brands do make better equipment ect.

if i were you id do some listening and auditioning then also look up reviews to get your best educated sub for your application.. power airspace install ect will all have to be taken into consideration.
for now is say look into the ID Q, ARC 12, IDMAX, FI Q, JBL GTI MKII, MOREL ULTIMO FOCAL KRX JL w6 the list goes on just to name a few..

good luck

jstoner22

iTrader: (1)

your mid-woofers are going to make much more of a difference in perceivable 'tightness' than your sub will.

also, i don't think there is much merit to that 600 watts business. some of the best sq subs out there are 1000watts. (idmax, ultimo, etc)

i'd recommend looking at a pair of IDQ's in a nicely designed enclosure.

and much like the mid-woofers, the enclosure will make more of a difference than your brand choice as well.

Dukk

^ Agreed. If you want more impact, tighter response, etc. focus on your midbass..

ArsenalProAudio

So I have finally come across a sub I have considered getting for my triple 10 sealed box JBL W10 Gti Mk2. Does anybody have any experience with this sub? Ive been doing lots of research and reasoned it would prolly have the tightest response and both SPL and SQ. Is this sub the best of both worlds and therefore SQL?

I haven't heard it yet but I haven't found a single negative thing said about it anywhere whether online, or asking around. Does anyone here own this sub and is it the best sub for the money?

ArsenalProAudio

also, an expert said to run these at 3 ohm each rather than putting them together for the only option of 6 ohm or 1 ohm. So I can run three 1501bd amps to each seperately at 3 ohms... but I hope that will not over power them by too much.... if my gain is down am i safe? Because these amps could prolly do 1200 watts at 3ohm... thats double the rating of the speaker... am i risking damaging the subs even at low gain?

Also i am still keeping my 2 Rockford box with the punch HX2s in the ported box (DVC4ohm)... (apparently the best SQ subs that rockford has come out with in their entire history) because I would like the option to have days where i run a ported box with the 12s based on my mood.... or if i want a different sound and to just switch the box.... so should I run these ones off one amp at 4ohm only getting about 800 watts and disconnect 2 of the three amps? or should I over power them running 2 separate amps to them with gain at close to zero and disconnecting only the third? But then this would be 2 ohm because of the DVC 4 ohm coils (if seperate amps).

and an expert told me that 4 ohm is a much tighter sound than 2 ohm because the speaker stops faster (and he was explaining all this complex sine wave stuff and that 2 ohm is whey more distortion than 4 ohm).... but then Rockford Tech support told me that at if I am over powering at 2 ohm i wont hear a difference due to the dynamic range i would have.... so i am at a difficult situation here.


The expert says that JL Audio and JBL makes their high end stuff in the 3ohm increments because if the fact that if a final load of 3 ohm is used, then it would be the best of SPL and SQ worlds....

Please help....

ArsenalProAudio

And finally, is there an easy and fast method to be able to disconnect 2-3 of these amps at will and on the fly? like some kill switch during the operation of less than 3 of the amps so that they are not in use form the battery for example when i am using the other box? Because all i want to have to do is disconnect the speaker wire from the terminals and switch the box, put the other box in - put the speaker wire in those terminals and quickly activate an amp. (These are all 1501bd amps).

THanks

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

You just need to wire a switch for the remote turn on leads and put the switch somwhere convenient. Basically, power from head unit remote lead to switch + or input, and switch - or output to the remote on connection of the amp(s). Since it's such low power, you don't need a relay, but an inline .5-1 amp fuse close to the head unit along the remote out lead is a good idea...i've used push button, rocker and toggle switches for this in the past...all work well.

Dukk

Sounds like you have quite the expert helping you...