Spun

I don't know if this is the right section for this but it looked like the best one to put it in so here goes.
I have a 2007 Cobalt SS/SC
Sound wise the upgrades I have made to it are
JVC 7" Touch screen HU
Hertz Energy 5.25 comp. and 6.5 comp
The amp that runs the front end is a DD S4
2 DD 2512's
The amp running the subs is a DD M2a
Kinetik HC 1800 batt. ( Has 2, 0 Guage grounds each being about 18-20")
0 guage power wire to the fuse/distribution block and the 4 guage to the amps. 4 guage ground from the amps, All street wires, all the amps and the power related wiring was installed by a pro.
Heres my problem, even with that Kinetik battery, I'm still getting light dim, not half as bad as it used to be but still there.
I'm guessing it has something to do with the 105 amp alt. I have running.
So does any one know any company's that make a H.O. alt. for my car.
I would rather not have the alt re-wound but if its all that can be done it might have to be an option, I am looking for something around 160amps @ idle which should make it 200-220 amps at peak.

Now my prefered option is to go with a dual alt setup, I have seen one on a Cobalt forum, there is also a guy who lives in the Vancouver area, with a red/black 2 tone Cobalt, has a whole Pioneer system from Visions, who has it done, but they had it done by an outside company, and are being a little tight liped as to the name of the company.
Anyone have any suggestions, any words of wisdom, any help at all, I just need a push in the right direction. I have been looking for a while but am getting frustrated. I think I just don't know the right places to look.

Weman

Do you have a cap?

Bwrekkin

In my recent search for alternators, I found cheap one-wire alts for domestic cars, which can be installed if there is room as a second alternator (which there wasn't in my car). I bought one from Ohio Generators which is a bolt on in my factory mounts. It is 160 amp idle and around 220 at higher RPM's. The guy I dealt with was very helpful. PM me if you want his info. Oh and it wasn't cheap!!

LOWTONEZ

iTrader: (3)

Do you have wiring done under hood? Such as larger grounds and 12v lines? (the big 3).
I have the exact same car with the same amp and had problems in the past with dimming. Did some wiring under the hood and fixed my problem, This was also running close to 4000 watts.

Spun

Yes I do but its a plecebo as far as I'm concerned, it makes me think its doing some good but its really a waste of ring terminals if you ask me.
Do you think it will work in a Cobalt, if one thing is certain, this car is like a woman, it fights you every step of the way, and don't give nothing up easy.
Oh yeah, I forgot, I don't expect this to be cheap. Money I have, a H.O. alt I do not

As far as the big 3 I have only done the Battery grounds, at the same time I relocated the battery from the spare tire well to the passenger side, behind the wheel well in order to mould the box to the trunk floor, I have (2) 0 guage ground lines both about 20" long one goes to the mount for the antenna and the other to a bolt holing in the outside tail light, they both had resistance when I hooked up the multi meter to the stock ground
How did you do yours?
I can't even see the wires coming off the alt, never mind get at them.
Did you do the power wire from the battery to the fuse box and then to the alt and did you use the same grounding spot for the alt just with bigger wire or did you run a whole new one?

Thanks for the info guys

BIGEVIL

Why not have your alt "hopped-up"? It will fit correctly, look stock, no wiring issues (except for the larger output wire), no custom fab brackets or belts etc etc.

n-sanity

Lets repose a previously stated question: do you have a capacitor in your setup? If not, that's the first thing i'd get. During peaks, your amps will draw more then their rms, which will stress out your power distrib system. A large cap will act as a power buffer, smoothing out the peaks, ensuring your rms is all that's drawn from your car. Good luck!

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

A cap is good when you have the current there to begin with.... he does not. I would not recommend a cap at all in this situation (and since he has one in there and it is doing nothing confirms what I just mentioned). New high output alternator.

1) custom build and use a good one like Stinger or Ohio Generator. Built new from the ground up and does not have the issues that a rebuild does. Downfall, it is big $$$$.

2) rebuild the factory one. Increase the windings in the same case to raise output. This of course will be cheaper and has a fatal flaw. Heat is the natural byproduct of the production of power, now you are increasing the heat in the same small case, ask yourself how long or how many times you want to replace the alternator as you will be taking it to it's maximum with this system.

To me this is a simple thing, if you have the $, get the custom build.