Kicker Subs, Alpine Amp and some wires
#1
Kicker Subs, Alpine Amp and some wires
I just installed my audio system myself, and it was my first time doing it. I got it all hooked up and it sounds good and haven't had any problems with it.
My setup:
Two 12'' Kicker C12 in ported Kicker box.
One Alpine MRP - M450 Mono Amplofier
Wiring rated for 600 RMS (unknown brand)
JVC KD-R420 Head Unit
I have seen others with higher powered amps then mine and I want to know if what I have is a good setup..
What are the pros and cons of my setup compared to a setup with brand name wires and and higher powered amp.
ps. I don't want to hear any crap about how I should upgrade to better subs.
I like the ones I have.
My setup:
Two 12'' Kicker C12 in ported Kicker box.
One Alpine MRP - M450 Mono Amplofier
Wiring rated for 600 RMS (unknown brand)
JVC KD-R420 Head Unit
I have seen others with higher powered amps then mine and I want to know if what I have is a good setup..
What are the pros and cons of my setup compared to a setup with brand name wires and and higher powered amp.
ps. I don't want to hear any crap about how I should upgrade to better subs.
I like the ones I have.
#2
If your setup sounds sounds good to you it's good.
A higher power amp will get you more headroom for dynamic music but as long as you're not clipping the amp (running it into distortion) you should be good to go. Are the subs properly power matched? I'd rather over power subs than under power. As long as it's kept within reason and not way over powered pounding all day and night.
We're opening a big can of worms with this wiring thing, but I always suggest to customers to use high quality OFC wiring even though all the copper clad aluminum wire is rated for the same output. I'd only use copper in my car and a nicer kit will get u nicer accessories that can make that little difference in a quality system.
A higher power amp will get you more headroom for dynamic music but as long as you're not clipping the amp (running it into distortion) you should be good to go. Are the subs properly power matched? I'd rather over power subs than under power. As long as it's kept within reason and not way over powered pounding all day and night.
We're opening a big can of worms with this wiring thing, but I always suggest to customers to use high quality OFC wiring even though all the copper clad aluminum wire is rated for the same output. I'd only use copper in my car and a nicer kit will get u nicer accessories that can make that little difference in a quality system.
#3
Thanks alot for your reply DatSubishi!
I understand what your saying about everything except the matched power for the subs.
I would expect for them to be matched. I have one input on the enclosure which powers both subs. Does this mean its automatically power matched?
And what do you mean by more head room?
Sorry for my ignorance.
I understand what your saying about everything except the matched power for the subs.
I would expect for them to be matched. I have one input on the enclosure which powers both subs. Does this mean its automatically power matched?
And what do you mean by more head room?
Sorry for my ignorance.
Last edited by SkateMike519; 04-27-2011 at 07:54 PM. Reason: missed point
#4
Properly matched power handling vs. amps power output. Ie. 500 RMS subs on 500 RMS amp.
"dynamic" Headroom is having extra power to spare when you hit a paticularilly power hungry note. It's always better to have extra amp power on tap vs. always straining your amp to produce it's max power and possibly pushing it into distortion, which will burn voice coils and destroy subs.
Don't be sorry. We're all here to learn a thing or 2.
"dynamic" Headroom is having extra power to spare when you hit a paticularilly power hungry note. It's always better to have extra amp power on tap vs. always straining your amp to produce it's max power and possibly pushing it into distortion, which will burn voice coils and destroy subs.
Don't be sorry. We're all here to learn a thing or 2.
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