Hi.
I have two sub, one 12" and one 10" that I have connected to my old MTX blue thunder 1502. It was playing good since 3years but now my amp is broken.
I need to buy a new amp but I don't want to pay a big price for an amp.

I saw on ebay (lanzar amp and power acoustik) with 2200Watt and 370rms to 550rms at 4ohms.

would I be ok with one of those amp ? Or I should look for other amp?

amp no1: Lanzar VBP251 Vibe Pro Series 2200 Watts
Maximum Power : 2200 watts
RMS Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 550 watts x 2
RMS Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 990 watts x 2
MAX Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 1100 watts x 2
Bridged Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 2200 watts x 1
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (dB) : >95dB
Frequency Response (Hz) : 15Hz – 35kHz

amp no2: POWER ACOUSTIK® BAMF2200/22200W
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 370 watts x 2 chan.
2 ohms: 450 watts x 2 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 900 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 2200 watts
Signal to Noise Ratio: 97 dB
Frequency response: 10-30000 Hz

I KNOW THOSE BRAND ARE NOT AS GOOD THAN PIONEER,MTX,ALPINE OR OTHER'S BUT FOR UNDER 200$ THEY ARE THE ONLY ONE THAT I SAW THAT COULD BE "GOOD".

For reference here's the Spec of my old MTX amp.
2 Channel
Rating at 12.5v
75 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
150 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm (bridged mode)
Rating ar 14.4v
425 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm (bridged mode)

 

Why the drastic power jump? You're going from an amp that produces 300 watts @ 2 ohms to amps that do upwards of 2000 RMS @ 2 Ohms?

What are the subwoofers, their specs, what type of enclosure are they in, have you done the big 3? Alternator upgrade?

Throwing suggestions in the dark is about as helpful as a kick in the junk; Give us something to work with.

 

Sorry ! I'm not really good with car audio stuff.

I haven't change my car alternator.

here's the spec of my sub:
Pioneer champion serie: TS-W253R
Size 10"
Watts MAX. Music Power 1000 Watts
Watts Nominal Power Handling 200 Watts
Ohm Rating 4
IN Bassworx Sealed Box (CS10)
------
Pioneer champion serie: TS-W303R
Size 12"
Watts MAX. Music Power 1200 Watts
Watts Nominal Power Handling 250 Watts
IN Bassworx Sealed Box(CS12)

I think my old MTX amp was not very good even if the sound was good.
Because the amp was giving only 75Wrms X2 channel and my sub are 200rms and 250rms each.
So with my none knowledge I thought that in max peak I would need 2200w and at lease 300watt rms x2 channel to push at 100% my two sub.

Also I'm using 8gauge cable with 60a fuse box.

 

it does not seem like you have any of the components needed to run either of those amps, your subs will blow, those pre-fab boxes will blow apart and your power wire will melt down and catch your car on fire if the voltage drop doesnt stall your car first, i know im being a bit hyperbolic but you cant jump from a very low end system to a 2000 watt amp and not change any of the other components just as drastically. id take your $200 and buy a decent 200-300 watt amp for the single 12 and sell the ten and use the money to pay for part of the amp. get someone on here or a local shop to design you a good ported box and youll be much happier than trying to mix all those things together

 

ok
I have a 4gauge wire kit that was in my other car should I use those wire?

I have a kit 4gauge that was in my other car should I use this wire?
when must we change alternator on our car?


and just to know what kind of equipment people need to run 2000watt amp ?

 

for a real decent CHEAP amp that will easily power thos subs, look into a visonik vxd-709.....very good amps.........but i wouldnt mis-match subs, lose the 10 and throw the 12 in a proper custom made , tuned ported box......you'll be way happier

haha...beat me to it

 

^^^^^^^

 

to run 2000 watts youll need more than just one run of 4 awg, youll also need to upgrade the grounding and power wires in your engine bay commonly called "the big 3" do a search for more on that, youll also need subs rated to handle that 2000 watts, a quick lesson is dont go by peak power always go by rms its a more true measurement for the real power youll be running without getting too complicated. those subs are rated for 200 watts so youll need 10 of them lol, but in all reality without doing a lot more research and learning about car audio youd be best to stick with the basics, properly powering the one sub you have in a good box will yield some pretty good results without you having to replace everything youve got, if the last amp you had was only giving 75 watts to each sub and you were happy with it for a while, 200-300 watts to the single 12 in a good box will be way more than you need

 

You are being a little drastic by just looking at max output of lower end amps as opposed to reading the actual specs of said amps and taking into account even they are probably overrated, and also at what ohmage he'd be running them at.

I don't totally disagree with your recommendations, but you're reasoning is ridiculously over-exaggerated.

The subs may blow, but only if not setup properly. (If you don't know how to set up your amp, ask someone who does to help you with it)

The boxes will not blow apart. I ran a 10" Memphis M-Class (300W rms) in a Bassworx sealed box with no issues of even having to think about worrying about the box blowing apart. That's just crazy talk.

I hate the fact that they even sell 8awg wiring kits, they are a waste of time and money, imo. I would never recommend anyone run any less than 4awg. However, you could run either of those amps @ 4ohms off the 8awg without any issues, especially with a 60 amp fuse. I wouldn't put any bigger of a fuse in without upgrading your wire though.

And his car won't be stalling out because of voltage drop, especially running 8 awg.

I totally agree that the op should buy a small monoblock or d-class and run a single sub. More is not always more.

As for the box, I think for now, sticking with the sealed box with more power for the single sub would be fine. Going ported is an option but not necessary for a decent sounding system on a budget.

 

Check the classifieds and your local buy/sell... You may be able to find an entire setup for $200, I've seen them out there