phat_71

Ok, so I'll start with the basics. I'm currently running a Premier PRS-D1200M class D mono amp with 1200W max. On that I've got a pair of TS-W257D4's, with 1000 max, and 350 RMS. Power is provided by a 2 gauge wiring kit and a 4 farad Cap.

For the sake of being simple, I went with a basic rectangular sealed box design, just because I wasn't in the mood to make it complex, I really just wanted to get my system together. Now that I have it though, I'll be able to work on something more powerful. Currently my subs are rear facing. What I want to do is have them facing forward, with a plexi-glass viewing window for each subwoofer. I'd also prefer to make a ported enclosure, so I can maximize my bass level.

Now for the questions. I should start by saying I'm not a moron, but having said that I'm also smart enough to know when I should be asking for advice, since I usually prefer to learn from the mistakes of others instead of my own

First, about the plexi. I'm assuming I'd want my plexi thickness to match my MDF, more or less, at 3/4 inches? Other than that I've read several different sites and some of them say that the plexi will affect the sound somewhat, and is also prone to vibrating. I'm thinking a good silicone and some properly countersunk screws should avoid this?

And lastly, I get the basics of porting, but if someone could give me a little more detail about it I'd appreciate it. Overall I'm looking for sick bass, but good sound quality as well. Any help would be great

andreman

i think that you wont need 3/4 plexi glass, unless its a farely large peice.maybe 5\8 would be better.

jalat

iTrader: (6)

if your gonna do anything with a plexi window, stick to using 5/8 or 3/4" lexan.

turboeeyore

this is a cadillac? to optimize sound point em' backwards. the size of the trunk act's as it's own box and helps resonate the sound. pointing them forward will cancel out the sound on the back of the seat. i'm guessing the seat doesn't fold down???

phat_71

Nah. For all the advanced options and luxury, my seats don't fold down. There's leather, soft foam, and sheet metal behind it :P.

NOW, I do have one other question about sealing. I've gone with glue/screw and silicone before because that was typical, but I found some 2 sided tape today that was like a foam, and apparently it comes in various thickness, acting somewhat like a weather stripping. If I were to use that material on the joints instead of glue, could I effectively make my box airtight at the same time?

turboeeyore

glue and screws are fine. if you've ever watched unique whips they nail them together, and the glue is what does all the work. if the box is being carpeted, tape the cracks around the outside with aluminum ducting tape, it's expensive but it's very strong. silicone is overkill.

fullthrottle

if your worried about space and back seat not folding down.think about trying a ap design box.for more info checkout speakerworks in cal.(aperiotic membrane.

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Tip..... before you go out and spend the huge $$$$ on plexiglass, make the box out of mdf first. Then try it facing the way you want vs. firing it to the back of the car like it should be. You might just change your mind on the plexiglass back idea after that.

phat_71

I've been thinking, and the more I think the more I'm liking the idea of using the double sided foam tape..for multiple reasons. Personally I have a background in carpentry, so glue/screw is basically the word of god for me. Glue is never 100% reliable, nor are nails. Screws are far more effective by design. That said, pre-drilling is a pain in the *** when having to drill through 2 pieces that aren't yet connected. The 2 sided tape would eliminate that problem, and ensure perfect alignment. On top of that, it would do a job similar to glue, and provide an air-stop in the case of there being any gaps of any sort in my cuts, since it IS possible that I might be off somewhere by like 1/64th of an inch :P And even better, unlike silicone or glue, the double-sided tape has basically NO dry or set time, so I can put it down, screw together and boom the hell out of my system. I'm going to be assembling my box tomorrow, minus the plexi-window this time around, and I'll let everybody know how well it works out.

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

I know exactly the "tape" you mean and I dont think it will hold up without reinforcrcement.

And.........I just went back over your post and realized you were still going to use screws. Sigh. Reading comprehension FTW.

Anway, nothing wrong wit using silicone for the inside seams. 99% of every box building tutorial online tells you that. And its cheap if you buy a tube and a caulking gun (5 bucks).

John