I plan on building a sealed enclosure for this sub. Finally took it out of the band-pass box tonight.

The enclosure-volume range (gross) that Alpine states is .65-1.5cu.ft. They also list the optimum volume, again gross, at 1.0cu.ft.

I was hoping someone could tell me which end of that range would yield a tighter bass response, as opposed to a deeper tone? Logic makes me think that a smaller box, near the .65cu.ft mark, would result in tighter bass. The RMS on this woofer is 300W. I'll be feeding 410W to it at 4 ohm. I'm almost certain that I've read a few times that having more power available allows for a smaller sealed box, as you have more power to work against the increased pressure inside the box. Do I understand that correctly?

Other pertinent info off the spec sheet...?
Free Air Resonance (Fs) : 33Hz
Mechanical Q (Qms) : 13.42
Linear excursion, One-Way (Xmax) : 12.9mm
Total Q (Qts) : .62

If I missed anything you can find it here. (Link) Info is in a chart on the 3rd page, under SWS-1023D.

I have left over 3/4 MDF from my box build for the SW7200 I bought from MR2NR. I figured I'd use that material to make a new box for this sub.

I was hoping someone with that WinISD program could show me a graph/diagram of the output curves of a box at the min, and max volumes. Not sure if I'm referring to the graph properly. This will enable me to pick the box size I feel will work best for what I'm trying to accomplish.

Thanks.

 

for 10" woofers, i've always had sucess with an enclosure that is 0.85 cubic feet sealed. but i am going to try and model the stuff up in Win ISD

 

Hopefully this helps you out

 

You, Jalat, are the man. Thanks for taking the time to do this for me.

Not too much of a difference. Looks like the bigger volume will result in a higher dB in and around the 60-120Hz range. I'm surprised that the smaller box has more output below 50Hz.

I'm going to try the .85cu.ft enclosure. I'll try and post pictures up of this build, maybe get to it this weekend.

 

14"x14"x11" - according to Rockford's boxwizard, that'll result in a .86cu.ft internal volume. The displacement of the driver is .05cuf.t, according to Alpine. So I'll finish with a .855cu.ft net volume.
That works for me. Thanks again.

 

i use that RF boxwizard myself for sealed enclosure, it works great. and good choice with the 0.85 cubes, especially giving it more than the RMS rating, you wanna keep the enclosure as small as possible (within reason) to yeild/stop any mechanical failures. glad i could help.

p.s pics are a must, and call me Mike... jalat is my last name spelt backwards lol

 

just my .02..i have 2 type R's in .85 cubes each sealed...and I love it! It's powered by 1200 watts rms and it gets plenty loud and very clean with dynamic bass. It plays everything from opera (yes i actually listen to some opera) to hip hop very well, has no problem with techno, or beats. That's the Alpine spec for these by the way (0.85 cubes sealed)...hey maybe they know something about the drivers they make??? Just 4 rules...air tight box, and strong (use 3/4 mdf at least and I built mine as separate chambers to have good bass even if one failed, and to have a stronger, stiffer box), bolt it down to launch the energy, and seal the enclosure to the interior if you're facing it inside the cabin.

 

You know something, I was under the impression that putting more power than the RMS would require a larger enclosure. I figured that with more power, if the sub was in a more confined space, that the air pressure inside that smaller box would actually make it more difficult on the mechanics of the driver to function - causing something to blow apart. Of course, I'm probably over estimating the amount of pressure that is created in the enclosure. But I understand what you're saying now Mike, that with extra power, the extra air pressure in the lesser-volume box helps to control the sub.

Yeah, Veeman. I'll definitely be gluing and screwing the box together, pre-drilling, and counter-sinking the screw heads. By my math I figure I'll need a total of 42 screws. I'm going to pick up eight T-nuts for fastening the sub in place. I also have a huge roll of non-hardening weather stripping (plasticine basically) left over that I'll place under the flange, and the speaker terminal box.

Should be able to knock it together late Saturday afternoon.