Sub Box Ports

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04-04-2012, 03:04 PM

#11

Mikezord

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Quote:

Originally Posted by stochastic

You should use some MDF for the rectangular port.

A new box really will provide better results. Try designing one for your sub before you go working on this project. The difference in cost is minimal as a sheet of 3/4" MDF to start a new box entirely is not much more than a few planks of MDF to build your port.

well i am always looking for something to do that ive never done before. So i may just use this box for now and buy a big sheet of mdf. Cut off a section to repair this box which will give me the time to enjoy my subs and the time to work on building a brand new box, if in fact the price difference is minimal. thanks for the inspiration! lol

04-04-2012, 03:08 PM

#12

Mikezord

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Quote:

Originally Posted by stochastic

At least two days clamped. Let it fully cure before you start flexing it.

any glue or sealent you recommend? i heard gorilla glue or silicone is a good way to go

04-05-2012, 03:29 AM

#13

stochastic

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Gorilla Glue or PL Premium Advanced. I use PL simply because of the cost on a large box. Gorilla Glue is really tough stuff, but pretty expensive too. Straight sillicone won't hold anything together, but it can be added after to make sure things are airtight - you don't want a vented/ported box to have any minor leaks as this will screw with the box's tuning.

04-05-2012, 09:44 AM

#14

wasted911

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I'd use common wood glue. Quick dry if you dont want to wait too long. If you've never used PL premium, make sure to wear gloves (as it WONT come off) and absolutely do not get it on anything you dont want a permanent gob of glue on. The only way to get PL premium off is by sanding, or grinding.

04-05-2012, 01:48 PM

#15

stochastic

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The reason why I'd stay away from common wood glue is that it's NOT waterproof. Though a car is unlikely to get terribly wet inside, it's also totally possible that your sub box gets a bit of rain on a corner while the trunk or hatch is open. Moisture is also airborne as one can see through condensation inside your car on some mornings. I stick with spending $4 more and getting waterproof glue just incase.

Also, wood glue still has a 24hr cure time and should remain clamped for roughly that length - just to be safe. One can take the clamps off after the first couple hours but I wouldn't stress the joints for at least 24 hours.

Last edited by stochastic; 04-05-2012 at 01:51 PM.

04-12-2012, 11:54 PM

#16

manethon

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get a sheet of 3/4 inch shop grade bitch ply....

04-14-2012, 11:12 AM

#17

Lord Huggington

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Any opinions on mdf light?

04-16-2012, 12:20 PM

#18

audio1der

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The 1"MDF I found everywhere around here (everywhere who could even get it, anyhow) only came in "light". Those mtherf*cking sheets were NOT light, and cut/drilled just like regular MDF. I couldn't tell the difference.