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3-way component set. Buy or build myself?

Old 08-13-2009, 12:44 PM
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3-way component set. Buy or build myself?

I'm looking to install a 3-way component set but I have some pretty specific criteria that I'm hoping you all can help me with.

I figure I could go one of two ways.

1 - Use a set of DD 6.5" components that I have now but purchase a 3-way xover and a dedicated midbass and set that all up

OR

2 - Ditch the DD 6.5's all together and buy a complete 3-way set.

What I want/need is something that can play down to about 50-60hz and do it WELL.

Why so low? The frequencies below that will be picked up by my PG Cyclone. (which will be low-passed around 50-55hz)

So, which direction do you guys reccomend and please specify brand/model.

(err... for a budget.. this is a daily drive so I'm not looking to blow a TON of cash. I just want something decent that works... I have no idea how much that would cost though)
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Old 08-13-2009, 12:54 PM
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loose the DD's(to me ) and get a dedicated 3 way setup...
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:42 PM
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I'm going to get crushed for this but here I go anyway, I assume the way you worded that you want them to play that low "WELL" that you mean at a decent volume?

Maybe your and my opinion of "decent volume" is different, but I have yet to meet a 6.5 that can play to 50hz at what I consider a decent volume. I have not heard them all however.

I'm also not sure why people are stuck on LP their subs so low
I have mine crossed shallow at 100Hz and it's very "up front"....but to each their own....

Distortion at 50hz is really hard to pick up on, the residuals are all over the place but not too many people recognize them and they assume their sub is crossed to high, where it's the 6.5's playing 50hz that actually to be blamed.

As for your actual question (sorry about steering away) I'm a huge proponent of trying to make what you have work for what you need, so, I'd keep them, find a decent deal on a crossover and the other drivers and save a few bux, if it doesn't work out for you, sell it all, lose a couple of dollars (maybe) and call it a cheap learning experience, then start over....fun huh?


My thing with "dedicated" 3-ways are that sure, the crossovers are designed with the speakers in mind, but not the environment, they just can't account for your individual installation or vehicle so they can never be perfect and most offer very little in the way of adjustments.

Last edited by MTT; 08-13-2009 at 01:44 PM.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:09 PM
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Thanks for the great post. It's very informative. I think I need to clarify a few things though.

I don't necessarily want a 6.5" that can play down to 50hz. The 6.5 from the DD's will go as low as I need them to go in the 3-way setup. I'd be looking at adding either a pair of 6.5" or 8" subs to compliment them and THOSE would be the ones to pick up the lower end. The idea is to have them in a set of kicks with the 6.5" and tweets to be in the door.

I also think you may have missed the part about WHY I'm crossing over my "sub" so low. I'll be using a PG Cyclone. I'm going to assume you know what this is and possibly just missed it. Either way, the Cyclone is made to play 50hz and below. (maybe 55hz, I forget)

So it sounds like you would suggest using what I have. I'm actually a fan of that idea myself. I just don't know WHERE to start. What speakers should I use for the midbass. Where can I find a 3-way xover on it's own?

*for the benefit of people who DON'T know what a PG Cyclone is. It's actually a servo-drive sub that is very efficient and plays extremely low. If you try and make it play anything over 50-60hz it will get damaged. Here's a pic so you know what I'm talking about.

Also... here's a link to the old PG web page that talks about the item:

http://webfaq.phoenixphorum.com/cyclone.htm

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Old 08-13-2009, 02:23 PM
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Jordy man, IF you are going to run a dedicated midbass, I cannot stress enough that you really should power them on their own amp channels. Sure you can get 3way passives (MBQ ones are usually on ebay) but in the same way how people usually dump 2-10x the power into a sub than the top end, I like to be 2-4x the power into the midbass than the mids and tweets. I find it blends better. Of course there are always exceptions and I am sure someone will comment here how their 100x2 3way passive front end is the be-all but it's easier to go active here.

As for drivers... of the midbass I have played with, the only ones I thought ever did a really good job at sub-100hz operation were Rockford Audiophile 6.5s and they have been disco for years. Lucky for me I have a NIB set for my next system. Oh, and for a sub crossed at 50-55hz, you can probably highpass the midbass in the 70-80hz range and never hear the hole. That can relieve a lot of pressure off the midbass driver.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JordyO View Post
Thanks for the great post. It's very informative. I think I need to clarify a few things though.

I don't necessarily want a 6.5" that can play down to 50hz. The 6.5 from the DD's will go as low as I need them to go in the 3-way setup. I'd be looking at adding either a pair of 6.5" or 8" subs to compliment them and THOSE would be the ones to pick up the lower end. The idea is to have them in a set of kicks with the 6.5" and tweets to be in the door.

I also think you may have missed the part about WHY I'm crossing over my "sub" so low. I'll be using a PG Cyclone. I'm going to assume you know what this is and possibly just missed it. Either way, the Cyclone is made to play 50hz and below. (maybe 55hz, I forget)

So it sounds like you would suggest using what I have. I'm actually a fan of that idea myself. I just don't know WHERE to start. What speakers should I use for the midbass. Where can I find a 3-way xover on it's own?

*for the benefit of people who DON'T know what a PG Cyclone is. It's actually a servo-drive sub that is very efficient and plays extremely low. If you try and make it play anything over 50-60hz it will get damaged. Here's a pic so you know what I'm talking about.

My bad, I did miss the part about it being a cyclone, I don't know much about them, but I did know they were very limited but very good at what they did play.

you could try building your system from components at madisound, who could build you crossovers that are measured to match the drivers you selected, and you give them the enclosure dimensions you're going to be putting them in, worked well for me and it wasn't very expensive, just have to have the patience to send and receive quite a few emails to get it done.

of course you could go electronic Xover which is a little more money (generally) but much more flexible.

if you want some inexpensive choice that I'd look into....I'd say try the peerless sls8 (8 inch) and the peerless HDS tweeter (large format) to mate with the DD's, with enough power, good EQ and crossed over properly, should make a kick butt 3-way.

My reasoning for those choices are, the 8 play exceptionally well up and into the range the DD will take over as well as down into the middle of the range the Cyclone plays (room for adjustment)

The HDS tweet, if you can fit a 4 inch tweet is one of my all favorites, sounds amazing and plays shockingly low (I'm suspecting the DD doesn't shine up top) the HDS will pick up where the DD leaves off effortlessly (which is key to me for tweeters.)


sorry if I do, once again, misunderstand your question
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:14 PM
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Well the DD's are a component set, so they come with a tweet already. Would I really need to pick up something like the HDS? God, I'm not even sure where I'd fit a 4" tweet without building a pod on the dash.

Paul - I trust your opinion 100%. I already have a 4 x 40w Eclipse amp. Do you think it would be enough to go with 2x40 to the DD's and then use the other 2x 40 to each midbass? (leaving the rears unamplified)


Also... if I'm going active then what crossover would you suggest? Is Audiocontrol pretty much the only way to go? They seem fairly pricey so are there any other options?

for the cyclone I need a 18db slope.

thanks for the help guys!! This stuff is all so new and foreign to me :P
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:48 PM
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Do you think the 2 ways would provide enough midbass to compliment the Cyclone and how low it needs to be crossed over?
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:22 PM
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I'd recommend the midbass drivers in the doors, and the DD comp mid's in the kicks, instead of the other way around.

Gives the MB drivers more room to play, and the DD's a better on axis response in the kicks.

Just my .02
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