Alpine: type R vs Type X
#11
I use solens and the hepta-litz coils....usually parallel the larger caps with a very high quality .01uf poly or teflon cap. Mills non inductive resistors are good as well.
I do not change the crossover points or slopes.
I will sometimes solder point to point and ditch the circuit board.
The results are usually very dramatic.
There is 2 drawbacks to doing this: the cost and the physicall size of the new components.
I do not change the crossover points or slopes.
I will sometimes solder point to point and ditch the circuit board.
The results are usually very dramatic.
There is 2 drawbacks to doing this: the cost and the physicall size of the new components.
#13
I used to love the Altec Lansing ALS-5 component set, except that the X-over was a bit weak. I used to rebuild the X-overs with solens coils and good caps, no circuit board, and ditched the resistors as well.
Don't know for sure if it wasn't all in my head, but I could tell the difference between the cars I upgraded, and the ones that couldn't afford the extra hun.
One neat trick to do some fine tuning on a passive network, is to slowly insert a socket, or bolt into the centre of the coils. Sometimes a dramatic change in phasing, and then replace the coil with one a bit larger.
Don't know for sure if it wasn't all in my head, but I could tell the difference between the cars I upgraded, and the ones that couldn't afford the extra hun.
One neat trick to do some fine tuning on a passive network, is to slowly insert a socket, or bolt into the centre of the coils. Sometimes a dramatic change in phasing, and then replace the coil with one a bit larger.
#14
most of this talk is too much SQ for me, but i'm looking into getting a good pair of 6.5 components this season....going with apline sounds pretty good to me, but will they handle power pretty well? i want to upgrade my SQ a little more then the general pioneers that i've got right now (120W max)....
are these alpines your talking about worth it?
are these alpines your talking about worth it?
#17
Type X sounds amazing. my friend had them in his old car powered by a Precision Power (the surf board ones) and they sounded great, the soundstage was huge and wide and the highs were amazing clear.
The Type R sounds like crap. muddy. I would take the Type S over a Type R, even.
The Type R sounds like crap. muddy. I would take the Type S over a Type R, even.
#19
The new type R components will sound vastly superior to the last ones, the type S components sound very amazing when you consider the price, for an set under $250 they are quite detailed and hard to beat.
As far as the X goes, absolutely incredible even at twice the price.
As far as the X goes, absolutely incredible even at twice the price.
#20
The R's are louder, alot muddier, not a horrible speaker but not the best. They are great for a boom system as they punch quite well. This is my experience with the SPR-17LS previous model. The silk dome tweeters sound smooth but lack high frequency range (not very bright). Crossovers are pretty cheap.
The X's all sound great. The crossover discussion is all true. Crossovers make the stereo and allow speakers to take their power handling capabilities without over extending and while playing the frequencies they do best. The soundstage with these is also great. These crossovers are amazing as said before.
I would buy the type X's...speaker size for the front stage 5 1/4's. Why? They are brighter and crossover to the tweeters better than the 6 1/2's (this is from recent experience). Also if you buy the X's and are customizing a box, the optimum SEALED (ported is double this volume optimum) is 20 liters for the 6's, and 5 liters for the 5's. For a pair of optimal sealed 6 1/2s you would need like 40 liters. All that volume for midbass? The 10 inch sub needs 28 liters sealed hahaha. My solution for the 6's was 2 sets isobarik.
The X's all sound great. The crossover discussion is all true. Crossovers make the stereo and allow speakers to take their power handling capabilities without over extending and while playing the frequencies they do best. The soundstage with these is also great. These crossovers are amazing as said before.
I would buy the type X's...speaker size for the front stage 5 1/4's. Why? They are brighter and crossover to the tweeters better than the 6 1/2's (this is from recent experience). Also if you buy the X's and are customizing a box, the optimum SEALED (ported is double this volume optimum) is 20 liters for the 6's, and 5 liters for the 5's. For a pair of optimal sealed 6 1/2s you would need like 40 liters. All that volume for midbass? The 10 inch sub needs 28 liters sealed hahaha. My solution for the 6's was 2 sets isobarik.