The larger the stator/ rotor diameter,and tighter clearances(virgin stator stacks), the more output@ a lower rpm .rewound alts won't produce as well, because they are machined/ground after removing the original windings.
also larger frame or iceberg cases alts have more surface area to sink heat to.
firetruck alts are almost impossible to fit most applications, but they make huge amperage, at a cost of 3-4 times that of an automotive alt.
plus, they will take alot of torque to run.
the ford ambulance alt is a slightly beefier automotive unit, with a few extra diodes to squeeze a bit more out of the design(police use the same stator and rectifier)
large case gm and large 3G ford are the best bang for the buck.
i personally find the gm to be easier to adapt to an application with several mounting options.
ford only have 3 designs with no split mount.

small honda cases do not have a rectifer capable of much more than stock, so don't buy one off of E-Bay.....lol, i had to say it..grizz has been around for a long time, and knows what i'm talking about.

i hope this answered some of your questions.

 

there is more than one way to skin a cat...and what rob and grizz are talking about is that there are easy ways to do things and the right way to do things. just cause it there are more than one way to get 200 amps doesnt mean its better.

there is no use in running your alt at full throttle all the time and expect it to last for ever. expect to buy one every year. until you go for a better made with better products in it you can expect to buy a new one every so often.

the other thing is warranty....a cheap alternator bought on ebay is just that.....cheap.....once you buy a few you'll stop buying them online. and go for the more tried tested and true. there are only 2 places that i would buy and alternator....most guys know both....some dont.

 

I duno ....I took my poor little dead altinator to my guy out near mission who has been doing alt's, starters & batteries all his life for heavy duty trucks and farm equipement and he bumped the little one in my car up to 100 amp for $100 havn't had a problem yet so I see no reason to spend $400 when you don't have to.
He is very tallented with automotive wireing (have to be when you have 3 sons with stereos)
he told me that if i kill this one (which he doubts unless I add a sh** load of more power) that he would add a second one just for the stereo.

 

more than one way to skin a cat......guys like rob vo arent runnig small amps....or doing small burps...guys like rob and riprocks and yuli and wagonized arent doing small burps...they are on the cusp of exploding thier equipment from being so loud....and after tryng all kinds of solutions...there are good ones and bad ones...and cheap ones and right ones.....

there is a reason why your solution works is because you arent in need of more power.....others might be....and there are good alts and bad ones.

but zzzzz might not need a 400-500 dollar solution......neither do you.....but there are guys that need that 500 dollar soution...as they are running 5000 watt plus systems. and that is in stock.

 

oh i totaly understand that and when the time comes I am sure that I will be forking out a fair bit of cash for a better alt for the little beast as well.

 

I will try to get the paperwork that the shop gave up with the alternater. We had to provide the unit and they rebuilt it for us. It's almost 8" round and about that deep.

The firefly has a Turbo, LOL. And the car is for SPL use only.

 

no i do not need a 220 but for sq i'm looking at points

but what i'm looking at is if a alternator needs to move 8000rpm how fast is my rpm running at ?

pat can you tell rob if he would like to look at it he can .i know he has not looked at doing dodge alternators and that is why i did not get one off him

 

I got mine from Dallas and it runs at 75amps at idle. 180amps at 2500 rpm