MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

I too would drop the 4 sub approach and upgrade to two far better 12's. I would also recommend things that I know would be highly predictable in this application. As I am a authorized vendor here on CCA, I also have many tools available for this application. Interested, drop me a e-mail to the address listed in my sig, or add me to MSN at the same address.

PhatFarm

Thanks for the replies guys.

NO I'm not at all stuck on the X's jsut something I was thinking about. I want my system to be loud, low AND clear if possible.

Up front right now I had a pair of MTX (dont know the model) 6*9's and a JVC KD-AR3000 deck that came with the car. Once I listen to the MTX's I will decide if they are staying or going. IF they stay they will be the rears and I will add a pair of fronts and they will be powered by an amp not the deck. As for the batteris/Alt yeah I figured I would have to upgrade in that department so that ocmes as no suprise.

If I do two higher end 12's ported what do you guys suggest?


AS for space I have (usable) about 30"D x 16"H and 60"W

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

For a ported box with a pair of 12's, we recently did a T-Bird (with a 10 body trunk, 15 if you chop them up), with a pair of the X2 drivers in it. Powered each sub up with 600w rms and at lower volume levels the tonal response was amazing, at upper volume levels, I had to get out of the car as I value my hearing. There are lots of options to consider here. It depends entirely on the way that you want to go about the system. Generally speaking, the bigger the sub, the bigger the amp, the bigger the box, the bigger the wiring, the bigger the battery and alternator, then the front speakers can't keep up with the overwhelming bass output, so another amp......A proper system is one that is going to be tonally balanced and highly predictable for the outcome.

PhatFarm

What do you guys think of a pair of 13w7's ported powered by a pair of 1000/1's? That would run me about $3K then for the front I could do a pair of 6x9'sish for rears and 5 1/2 components up front.

Hof

iTrader: (2)

I think you should check out how much it will cost you to get your electrical system upgraded first, because that will probably cost anywhere from 500-1000, then shoot for an unreal component set up front with a nice amp going to it, and then do your sub stage with what you got left in your budget. The 13w7's would be sweet, but 1000 left for electrical and front stage doesn't give much wiggle room. If possible, try to get a 6.5 inch component set or do the 5 1/4's with some midbasses or else you will have a very unbalanced soundstage.

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

I agree. A darn good set of front components + amp, then as good as JL is, it can be outdone for less investment. You have lots of options to choose from. Where are you located?

PhatFarm

Well like I mentioned earlier my budget if fairly flexible I'd liek to get this done right and not have to do it again for a long time so if I have to spend an extra K or so I dont really mind it just means I would have to wait longer for some of the other upgrades I want to do (steering wheel, dash etc). I will see if I have space for a 6.5 component set up front the way the doors are on my car I dont know it they will fit but I will check it out. I will also try to get out to some car shops and listen to some components.

Im in BC

MarkB

what kind of airspace do they like vented?

I still say sealed.

Hof

iTrader: (2)

I ain't raggin on the type x. My buddy had one sealed in his integra off a 1000 watt alpine (can't remember model, something like mrd-1000). Sounded great. I have never heard one ported. One hell of a speaker, good choice, just throwing out other options like two higher end 12's.