Amp and RMS question... :)
12-22-2003, 09:39 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 78
Hey guys, I have a question... My amp is 300 RMS and 2 channels and I have 2 subs which the brochure states function best with 125 watts rms running to them... SO if I hooked up both subs would that mean I was running 150 RMS to each sub or 300 rms to each sub??? Thanks guys!
Jeff
Jeff
12-22-2003, 10:15 PM
#2
If they are 4ohm subs running in stereo on the amp they are probably getting more like 75RMS each...
You would need to bridge your amp into 4ohms or run 2ohm stereo to get the 300RMS.... in which case each sub would see 150watts....
You would need to bridge your amp into 4ohms or run 2ohm stereo to get the 300RMS.... in which case each sub would see 150watts....
12-23-2003, 10:12 AM
#4
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 78
Hey!! Sorry for being vague in the post!! The subs are a 10" JL audio 10W0 and a JL Audio 15" 15W0. The amp I have is a Pioneer GM-X062 Bridgable 2 channel and is rated at the following...
Continuous Power Ratings.
125w x 2 @ 2 ohms
175w x 2 @ 4 ohms
530w x 1 @ 4 ohms
Should this be enough to power these 2 subs?? On the JL site is says that the recommended continuous power rating would be in and around 150w - 175w on that power chart they have there..
How would I connect the subs at the speaker output place to make them @ 4 ohms... Just hook them up normally to the L and R speaker outputs or is there something differant that needs to be done?? Thanks for all the help guys!
Continuous Power Ratings.
125w x 2 @ 2 ohms
175w x 2 @ 4 ohms
530w x 1 @ 4 ohms
Should this be enough to power these 2 subs?? On the JL site is says that the recommended continuous power rating would be in and around 150w - 175w on that power chart they have there..
How would I connect the subs at the speaker output place to make them @ 4 ohms... Just hook them up normally to the L and R speaker outputs or is there something differant that needs to be done?? Thanks for all the help guys!
12-24-2003, 12:35 AM
#7
Running a 10 and a 15 should work fine so long as they arn't sharing the same airspace(although it's kind of ghetto)... Cancellations per say, arn't really an issue... but it could mess with your transient response (accuracy) depending on how it's all setup....
One key piece of information is still missing though.... what is the nom. impedance of the woofers ?
If the 15 is the 8ohm version... then I'd sell the 10 and buy another 8ohm 15 and run a pair of those in parrallel for 4ohms.... you will not be dissapointed....
If they are 4ohm models, I'd just sell em both and move up to a single 4ohm 15w3 or similar or go with a pair of 8ohm wo's or similar...
One key piece of information is still missing though.... what is the nom. impedance of the woofers ?
If the 15 is the 8ohm version... then I'd sell the 10 and buy another 8ohm 15 and run a pair of those in parrallel for 4ohms.... you will not be dissapointed....
If they are 4ohm models, I'd just sell em both and move up to a single 4ohm 15w3 or similar or go with a pair of 8ohm wo's or similar...
12-24-2003, 09:44 AM
#9
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 756
I ran a 10W0 with around 200W RMS from a PPI 1440.2 amp (@4ohm mono). It ran trouble free for over a year and a half. The W0 is rated very conservatively, and is a very durable subwoofer. It won't hurt to over-power it a little.
I would stick with the single 15, mixing smaller and larger subs can produce negative results.
I would stick with the single 15, mixing smaller and larger subs can produce negative results.
12-24-2003, 11:24 AM
#10
Originally posted by DWVW:
No it would definately be cancellation problems, not transient response.
No it would definately be cancellation problems, not transient response.
This has been discussed on casound....
