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Big 3 questions.

Old 09-04-2010, 07:15 PM
  #11  
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No. It's still worth doing the wiring upgrade.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:26 PM
  #12  
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go to your local car audio shop and see if they have any scrap 4ga wire. Upgrade the battery to chassis ground first.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:27 PM
  #13  
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I might just end up buying a roll. I want to do some derby cars so I can use whatever's left as extensions for battery relocation. I dunno. Either way, I'll see what I can get.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:50 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Kyle_H
The battery isn't the original.

Actually it might even be 16. the 8 might be the starter wire. I forget now. So I'm basically screwed unless I want to spend $1000 on a battery and alternator then?
$50 in 4 gauge wire and termination
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:54 PM
  #15  
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Yeah I know, just people were starting to say big wouldn't matter.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:49 PM
  #16  
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With a 300 rms amp the big 3 will not help your dimming lights. doesn't hurt to do it anyways for future upgrades. An amp that size can only pull 20 amps max and your stock 8 gauge charging wire should easily handle that. You shouldn't get dimming at all for that matter. You alternator and/or batterys are toast. Have them checked. Also could just be the voltage regulator. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:55 PM
  #17  
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your battery is straight power.. i dont know where else you would run your amp wire from.. your charging system could be not hooked up period.. (like the cars not running) as long as you have a short run to ground the battery and ur running 4 guage. big 3 makes no dif unless your battery is going... its stupid to assume everyone is going to keep upgrading to bigger.. most people i know hit a certain volume and stop there.. not everyone loves deathly volume like some of us. if your running 4 guage to your battery your battery ground is good. and you still get lights dimming at 300rms.. the big 3 will be usesless and a waste of money unless you planned on going big.. my 2 cents.. but i dont see how any 1 can argue this. i run test systems off a penut charger and a motomaster battery just fine. usualy alot more then 300 rms. voltmeter makes this a whole lot easyer. not to sound rude at all but recomending the big 3 without knowing exactly what the person wants out of his system.. is like telling someone to get a 2000 watt amp for a pair of 200 watt woofers.. because he might want a pair of 1000 wat woofers.. like i said in other posts. if your planning on going up to the 3- 4k wat + range... go for it. but if your not its a complete waste of your money.

Last edited by splpassat; 09-04-2010 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:13 AM
  #18  
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My battery ground is only 8 gauge I believe. My high beams are Fine I think, I've got them relayed straight from the battery HIDs. My lows (also HIDs) and inside lighting blink. Dash lighting is fine as well.
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Old 09-06-2010, 12:36 AM
  #19  
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If the dimming is really bad i said do it. Incase you might upgrade to something else and have that outta the way...
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:27 AM
  #20  
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The fact the 2 previous builds had the issue as well give me reason to think... why? I am guessing the installation was done by the same folks as before and the same mistakes were made. And again it may be time to fire your installer

The big 3 upgrades wiring, it does not produce more power... BUT... if the problem is merely getting the power from the front of the vehicle to the amps this is an important first step (one an informed installer should have already made). The big 3 forces the installer to look at every electrical connection and upgrade it (if the connections are not improved it is a waste of money). Once the Big 3 is done, it may (or not) fix the dimming issue but at least you will know what the problem isn't!! Probably the most cost effective upgrade
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