burned my first sub is it possible it wasnt my fault?
#1
burned my first sub is it possible it wasnt my fault?
so my 2ohm pioneer shallow mount sub stopped working yesterday. i hoped it was just a snapped tinsel lead but then i pushed on the cone and it barely moves anymore. sub smells burnt and so does the sub. i know its probably my fault but is there any manufacturing defect that can lead to this?
had it hooked to a jbl 601.1 580rms at 2ohm
had it hooked to a jbl 601.1 580rms at 2ohm
#4
Some manufacturers dont cover burnt VC. They would call it installer error/ incorrect amp tuning. No defect in parts or manufacture is what they'd probably say. Most bigger companies (Future Shop, etc.) will warranty this, but if u make it a regular thing they get wise. online company may be harder to deal with.
Let us know what they say.
Let us know what they say.
#5
"burned my first sub is it possible it wasnt my fault?"
yes indeed it was 100% your fault. because your the one who installed it lol otherwise if you wouldnt have installed it someone else would have and may have blew it too and it would be thier fault. and if that didnt happen it would still be brand new in the box and not blown. so technicly yes it was ur fault lol but not in a bad way. im just being a smart ***.
anywho.
shallow sub you say? did you have it in a truck? behind the seat? is there a chance it was hitting the seat?
also whats the sub rated at? thats actually a lot of power for most pioneers i have seen they could deff not handle that ampount of power. BUT i havent seen them all before so im just curious what its rated at?
i have also heard if box is too small you can burn out a sub faster becuz there is too much compression coming back on the sub.
yes indeed it was 100% your fault. because your the one who installed it lol otherwise if you wouldnt have installed it someone else would have and may have blew it too and it would be thier fault. and if that didnt happen it would still be brand new in the box and not blown. so technicly yes it was ur fault lol but not in a bad way. im just being a smart ***.
anywho.
shallow sub you say? did you have it in a truck? behind the seat? is there a chance it was hitting the seat?
also whats the sub rated at? thats actually a lot of power for most pioneers i have seen they could deff not handle that ampount of power. BUT i havent seen them all before so im just curious what its rated at?
i have also heard if box is too small you can burn out a sub faster becuz there is too much compression coming back on the sub.
#7
if it's a burnt VC it can only be your fault. I can be caused by a bad amp giving some DC but you'll hear that bigtime. It'll sound like mechanical noise in the sub. Otherwise, you just tried to get more of the sub than it was capable of.
#8
"burned my first sub is it possible it wasnt my fault?"
yes indeed it was 100% your fault. because your the one who installed it lol otherwise if you wouldnt have installed it someone else would have and may have blew it too and it would be thier fault. and if that didnt happen it would still be brand new in the box and not blown. so technicly yes it was ur fault lol but not in a bad way. im just being a smart ***.
anywho.
shallow sub you say? did you have it in a truck? behind the seat? is there a chance it was hitting the seat?
also whats the sub rated at? thats actually a lot of power for most pioneers i have seen they could deff not handle that ampount of power. BUT i havent seen them all before so im just curious what its rated at?
i have also heard if box is too small you can burn out a sub faster becuz there is too much compression coming back on the sub.
yes indeed it was 100% your fault. because your the one who installed it lol otherwise if you wouldnt have installed it someone else would have and may have blew it too and it would be thier fault. and if that didnt happen it would still be brand new in the box and not blown. so technicly yes it was ur fault lol but not in a bad way. im just being a smart ***.
anywho.
shallow sub you say? did you have it in a truck? behind the seat? is there a chance it was hitting the seat?
also whats the sub rated at? thats actually a lot of power for most pioneers i have seen they could deff not handle that ampount of power. BUT i havent seen them all before so im just curious what its rated at?
i have also heard if box is too small you can burn out a sub faster becuz there is too much compression coming back on the sub.
sub is pioneers newest version of a shallow mount 10"
TS-SW2501S2
300 rms at 2ohm
1200 watts max at 2 ohm <--------------- think they exagerated that one a bit? hahaha
and yea its behind the seat of my 2006 Chevrolet crew cab but never touching the seat, i made sure of that
#10
The rated power is 300 rms.
That max power 1200 watts....Well it could technicly could be considered for a "burp" BUT I think its more of a way to get people who have no idea what they are doing to buy it because they breg they have 1200 watt sub.
You on the other hand seam to somewhat know what your talking about. But thats 1200 watts max isnt an RMS rating.
I am still a newb I am sure there is more to it? But when you put together a sub and amp combo match up the RMS ratings only. If anything find a sub that can handle a little more RMS then the amp can put out. Altho the amp will never truely put out the max wattage its still a good rule of thumb so you wont blow a sub.
I believe pioneer probably has a 1200 watts amp that is made specificly for this sub so they will sell both. When people who dont really know are looking for a sub and amp combo its a lot easier to drag them in with an amp and a sub with the exact same brand new and exact same wattage then it is to mix and match.
So basicly. Someone new to the sport wants bass.
Go to a store and see this Pioneer sub rated for 1200 watts. Thinking WOW thats amazing for a good price. Then they have the exact amp thats also 1200 watts and is also pioneer. So its logical to buy those two and put it together. But I am sure if you read into the pioneer AMP it is probably only like 300 RMS rating at the rear output so it WONT blow the 1200 watts sub.
My idea of why they do that anyways. Look up DC online. The best they do I think is 1500 rms? But they can take over 20,000 watts of power. But you cant play them like that ALL the time. Same idea. Sorta....
Reagrdless next sub look for RMS ratings only. Match it up to 600 rms as close as possible.
Hope this helps.
PS Not tyring to insult you try to explain why they put that high wattage rating? I could be wrong tho.
That max power 1200 watts....Well it could technicly could be considered for a "burp" BUT I think its more of a way to get people who have no idea what they are doing to buy it because they breg they have 1200 watt sub.
You on the other hand seam to somewhat know what your talking about. But thats 1200 watts max isnt an RMS rating.
I am still a newb I am sure there is more to it? But when you put together a sub and amp combo match up the RMS ratings only. If anything find a sub that can handle a little more RMS then the amp can put out. Altho the amp will never truely put out the max wattage its still a good rule of thumb so you wont blow a sub.
I believe pioneer probably has a 1200 watts amp that is made specificly for this sub so they will sell both. When people who dont really know are looking for a sub and amp combo its a lot easier to drag them in with an amp and a sub with the exact same brand new and exact same wattage then it is to mix and match.
So basicly. Someone new to the sport wants bass.
Go to a store and see this Pioneer sub rated for 1200 watts. Thinking WOW thats amazing for a good price. Then they have the exact amp thats also 1200 watts and is also pioneer. So its logical to buy those two and put it together. But I am sure if you read into the pioneer AMP it is probably only like 300 RMS rating at the rear output so it WONT blow the 1200 watts sub.
My idea of why they do that anyways. Look up DC online. The best they do I think is 1500 rms? But they can take over 20,000 watts of power. But you cant play them like that ALL the time. Same idea. Sorta....
Reagrdless next sub look for RMS ratings only. Match it up to 600 rms as close as possible.
Hope this helps.
PS Not tyring to insult you try to explain why they put that high wattage rating? I could be wrong tho.