Can someone explain how to do this setup?
 

Im not asking an Install, well sort of, but its more of a "how does this work" so i can try to learn more about what im trying to do...

I have a 2000 boneville, and i had troubles last year with replacing the stock unti because GM decided to make it part of the computer... anyways

i was going to buy a RE-Q5 and use that, i have a sub and amp ready to go, but i was wondering about the other speakers, i undertsna dhow to wire the re-q, but does that mean i need another amp for my other speakers?

i have 2 front speakers, 2 front tweeters, and 2 rear speakers, if i were to get a 4ch amp, how would i wire my tweeters or the other speakers? would i need a 6ch amp? or can i somehow connect the tweets with the door speakers channel?

the car is going to the dumps by the end of this year, so im not loooking to buy new door or rear speakers, but a sub/amp and even a re-eq i can at least re-use in my next car, Thanks :D

OK, so you have a real nice cross over unit. do you plan on replaceing the deck or useing it. As i rember they do make a rather huge harness for that car or you can use the chip emmulator for it. Either way i would replace it.

you need RCa's if you keep the factory deck then use a hi-to-low converter. they usualy sound like to be honest.

so i was hunting around a bit, correct me if im wrong....

i can buy a 4ch amp, run the 2 rears and the 2 doors, 1 on each amp channel... for my 2 tweeters (one on each door) i can just hook them up to the + and - of the door speakers on thier same channel, and just run a small cap or resistor in between to limit them?

is there a post around here that would show those steps?

or, even easier, get a 2ch amp, run the left front, left rear and left tweet on ch1, and all the rights on ch2, there stock speakers and there actually pretty nice, i doubt they would overload a 2ch amp, if i can even do that, load up all the lefts and rights across 2 ch

Yes, a tweeter and a midrange if caped off correctly will run 4 ohm as long as the freq they run at do not get withing the same range.. example.. 2 tweeters = 2 ohm since they run the same freq, mid and a tw 4ohm

You can run 2ohm but then you have no fadder control. If you want to do one channel you can we wall and run all your highs in mono :) it involves a little bit of cross wireing but it too can be done. There is no limit just how much time you wanna put into it. Factory speakers are good when amped but rember there still factory.

I apoligize for my spelling errors. I have fat fingers and this is a netbook.

np, i understand what you mean...

i know its still "factory" stuff, but the module and things for my car is $140, then a deck and all after is a little too much, at least here i get the re-q, and a small 4ch amp, i have all the rest,

i was just confused if the 4ch amp was NEEDED with the re-q and how my tweeters would branch off the door cpeakers on the same ch,

so if the amp is stable at 4ohms and puts out (ex.) 90w, i would just plug the rears in thier own channels, and match the door/tweets on the other 2 channels? while having a small pasive crossover inbetween door speaker and tweeter?
i know this setup wont impress any audiophiles, but it will get me my music, loud and with bass (hopefully :s), when i finish school and buy a new car ill make it nice, this is just a band-aid fix to run my sub and have a decent setup :D thats also why im trying to keep it "inexpensive" using an older 4ch amp like an alpine and i have had my jbl gto with a gto amp in my trunk unplugged for a while...

Its as simple as that. factory stereo to re-q --> i would use a 4ch w/ a cap just on the tw. That is if you plan on running tweeters. I'm sure the factorys at full range will be enough. I would set the xover on the re-q to around the 100hz range. factory speakers tend to not like lots of power and play low bass.

You can only do with what'cha got.

Myself i have 2 Kicker impluse amps for my highs. Each one is 1000wrms and there controled by a Kenwood KGC-9044. I run one amp for the right and one for the left. each amp runs 1 8" woofer, 2 6" mids 2 tweeters and a pyramid tw160 (600w rms horn)

First question - is your factory stuff Bose?

Aside from that, connecting a Re-Q (or any other LOC) still allows the use of the speaker it is connected to. If you want to add a sub, all you need to add is a the sub amp and sub.

i see, so i wont need an alternate amp for my speakers? they can run off head unit power THROUGH the re-q?

and then all i would need is to add my sub/amp and that should be it?

for my 2 front door, 2 tweets, and 2 rear speakers, would it be better to get the q or the q5? once this car is shot its going in a 2009 acura TL if that would help the decision on q or q5 for the future...

TBH im just thinking this setup up in my head, once i find out what to get and but it to see some visuals of manuals and it in the car ill know what im doing, somewhat...

The factory speakers will still run off of the factory deck, not through the Re-Q5. The Re-Q5 taps it's signal off of the speakers but does not alter the signal they get.

I would look at the 5 - it has sub control and a line in which is always handy.