Caps
 

Looking to buy a cap to kill the dimming lights when the bass hits in my car. Instead of upgrading the battery for the time being.

Running 2 10" Alpine Type R's SVC on a Kenwood 8101D Amp. I'm assuming I'll only need a 1 farad cap correct?

All of this is still new to me, I'm unfortunately not a pro or expert in this field... Hence my asking for your help.

Another question, does the brand really matter? Is this brand better than that brand etc. Or do they all do the same?

Thank you very much for your time.

- Ter.

I have basically a brand new Audiobahn one thats shiney chrome n has mounting hardware attached its 1Farad and would be good for you. I will PM you.

The "cap" has been discussed many times on here.

Basically if you don't have the electrical system to support your amperage needs currently a cap may make things worse as it will just be one more drain on the electrical system.

You don't have huge electrical demands so I would suggest doing a "Big 3" upgrade first and see if it solves your problems. It's cheap and will maximize the efficiency of the current electrical system which will actually help instead of wasting the money on a cap.

On a J-body like yours it is very easy and quick to do.

What exactly is the big 3 upgrade? And how is it done?

"search"

i found this on the net... Car Audio Capacitors: Why You Can't Do Without Them
i myself laughing when it says "You can choose from popular brands like Phoenix-Digital, Blitz-Audio, Kole-Audio, Pyramid, SoundStorm, Lanzar, Power-Acoustik, Pyle, Legacy, Nitro-BMW, SPL, and Volfenhag."

if pyramid pyle and legacy made a product you could not be without... god im living in the past.

"Voltage drops will be a thing of the past."

Hilarious. I don't think a system with 10 batteries and 10 caps wouldn't have a voltage drop, let alone one cap alone...

I just friggen proved the big three for the millionth time two weeks ago. I bought an 84 Dodge Coachman van, threw in a kicker 750.1 and a 12 inch L5 in a ported box. The headlights were dimming to the point of almost shutting off and I would watch the ammeter dive well into the discharge area. 4 guage power and ground from the alt to the battery new chasis ground and it doesnt even seem like I installed the amp at all.
I have had three caps in the store for the past two years, never sold em! do the wiring under the hood and replace the crappo battery to a good optima or the cambodian tire equivilent and it will cost you 30- 50 bucks more then the cap and you will never have a problem

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! If pyramid ever makes a quality item, i'll... wait, that will never happen!

I'll do that, however if I drive out to ur neck of the woods for some $ would you be so kind to do the big 3 upgrade for me?

Its pretty easy to do yourself . . . the big 3 are:
1. Chassis to Battery negative
2. Alternator + to Battery +
3. Alternator - to Chassis.

Upgrade those wires to a least 4, 2, 0 awg or bigger and you will have no problems.

It is just a matter of finding the current wires - disconnecting them and installing BIGGER ones - Start with the Battery Negative to the Chassis, then you will see how easy it is. After successfully doing that, you'll feel adventurous enough to trace which wire attached to the + terminal runs to the alt.

Not as easy for someone who knows nothing of electronics ;) The bf does all mine and even he's new to some of the things I throw at 'em. lol Don't even know how he'd understand this one or if he would. I dunno. Just easier for me to ask someone who's done it already to give a hand. Currently using 4 awg wire.

Terri this one really is a easy job. Between this site and the J-body page you can find out everything you need to know including how to take the alternator off which is the only "difficult" part.
Take a look at your engine compartment and you'll see where the negative on the battery grounds. It takes about 2min to change that.
Looking at the alternator you will see the bolts that need to be undone. Pop the belt off first and it's easy breezy from there. Once that's off you can finish up your other two connections and voila, you're done! :)

If you're using a stock alternator don't even bother doing the alt to battery positive wire, just the 2 grounds will make a big difference.

I ran a higher powered system than that in my old cavalier. I had the grounds upgraded but never did the Alt wire.
Lights dimmed with only a 1 F cap, so I added another 2 F. That worked fine.

Went through 3 alternators & 3 batterys in 8 years. :smilie_da

Yeah but that's nothing unusual for any GM car..



I agree that with a stock alternator, there is little reason to upgrade the charge cable between it and the battery.

Save yourself like $15 in wire and don't do alt as I said earlier, just grounds.

Blinddemonz , how could you have 4633 posts and not know anything? :smilie_au

Unless you're gonna post something that actually contributes to the thread get out. Not everyone can pick up on things as easily as others, hence the questions/request for help. Not to mention the forum title "General discussion about all things car audio"

By the same token, wouldn't there be little reason to upgrade the negative from alt to chassis?

Reason: If the alt can only produce so much for the positive feed, why or how would a larger negatvie feed offset that?

So then, wouldn't she only have to upgrade the battery - to chassis if she is running a stock alt?

^ On many cars the alt/engine to frame connection is cheesy and undersized. Plus it is rarely from anywhere near the alternator.

This is an easy run of cable so I just say do it.

Teri you know who this is

Its not hard at all and i'll even sell ya the 0/1,4 gauge and conecters to get it done.You saw what im opening

You also won't need to even remove the alt like said above,you will need some extended side posts if your useing your stock delco battery.(think you bought a yellow top anyways)

Alternator to battery charge wire on a Cavalier definately needs to be beefed up.
The charge passes through a fusible link to the starter, and from there up to the battery.
Crank your system for 5 minutes with the engine running, and then see how warm that alternator charge lead is.....careful.....don't burn your fingers.

cause she spent most of them in the doughnut shop,its a fun place here at cca

Haven't bought one yet actually lol Lemme know when your shop opens up man, I'm in need of some gear lol I almost forgot who this was until you mentioned your shop ;) I had one battery tap, but my rents conveniently put it away from the one spot I'd never lose it.... They're inexpensive though so I'm not worried. Only reason it never went on in the beginning was I couldn't get the damn piece outta the plastic on the battery connector! lol

yeah there only like $4 you just have to push the old one out with your thumbs,I'll help you out.

Lemme know when you're up and running and/or willing to give a hand and I'll bring the cav out :smilie_da