Car audio Rumours
10-01-2009, 07:30 AM
#91
So I've read the link showing Richard's Clark response and lessons's of basic electricity.
How does this all explain, My experiences of simply not having a Cap, and then getting a Cap (while changing nothing else in the car - nothing, no wiring, battery, Alt, temperature), same song same volume level and the voltage level was sustained much better. The bass felt noticeably better, sounded better/tighter, and the bonus was ....headlights.
Please explain this. Obviously we all don't need to spend $50-150 on Cap's/terminal connections, extra wire...etc. if we don't need to.
How does this all explain, My experiences of simply not having a Cap, and then getting a Cap (while changing nothing else in the car - nothing, no wiring, battery, Alt, temperature), same song same volume level and the voltage level was sustained much better. The bass felt noticeably better, sounded better/tighter, and the bonus was ....headlights.
Please explain this. Obviously we all don't need to spend $50-150 on Cap's/terminal connections, extra wire...etc. if we don't need to.
10-01-2009, 07:40 AM
#92
The cap is supposed to provide extra current when the battery and alternator aren't able to keep up. Correct?
How does it do this when the current output of the cap is only able to be maintained for a few miliseconds?
For the sake of this argument we'll say that current draw is increased for a specific frequency played. As an example when listening to a bass-heavy song the current draw is increased for the "boom" - which is also when the headlights dim on most systems. Correct?
Now I have to ask, how many songs do YOU listen to with only a 35 milisecond (or whatever) bass note?
So, you're right, the cap DOES do something, but for a very minute fraction of a second. For this fraction of a second your bass is super tight and your headlights glow with the fire of 1000 suns. After that... it's useless.
For the sake of those few miliseconds that it provides this extra current I think I'd rather keep my money in my pocket.
10-01-2009, 09:00 AM
#93
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 117
For the feel of tighter bass. What about the readings of the actual voltage with all the same variables, only difference is Cap connected, Cap disconnected.
I'm really not trying to proove any point scientifically, but rationally you can see the difference via the volt meter (regardless of what the lights are doing). This has always been an arguement when I bought my first aftermarket audio piece of equipment.
When I bought my PPI amp, they said..."but the PPI's don't need Cap's"....but the lower amps do? Deep Cycle, Upgraded alt from 105 to 130 running close to 800 rms. Add a Cap and dimming goes away. The bass feels tighter.
It works for me. I don't need to have an extra battery, extra 2 to 0 ga wire, extra connections, and find a place to store and mount a battery, solenoid, isolator, etc.
I'm really not trying to proove any point scientifically, but rationally you can see the difference via the volt meter (regardless of what the lights are doing). This has always been an arguement when I bought my first aftermarket audio piece of equipment.
When I bought my PPI amp, they said..."but the PPI's don't need Cap's"....but the lower amps do? Deep Cycle, Upgraded alt from 105 to 130 running close to 800 rms. Add a Cap and dimming goes away. The bass feels tighter.
It works for me. I don't need to have an extra battery, extra 2 to 0 ga wire, extra connections, and find a place to store and mount a battery, solenoid, isolator, etc.
10-01-2009, 10:03 AM
#95
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 461
10-01-2009, 10:16 AM
#96
i thought the whole idea of the cap is because it CAN put out its power in 34milliseconds. a batt and alternator can't deliver it that quickly, even if they can put it out.
isn't it just a bandaid for a system that can keep up, but is just a little slow of its feet? if a system can't keep up it can't keep up. the cap just buffers a decent system for that .5 second or whatever it is to allow the batt/alt to actually deliver the power. after that it would be useless, but it isn't meant for sustained voltage, just that quick charge/discharge in between
isn't it just a bandaid for a system that can keep up, but is just a little slow of its feet? if a system can't keep up it can't keep up. the cap just buffers a decent system for that .5 second or whatever it is to allow the batt/alt to actually deliver the power. after that it would be useless, but it isn't meant for sustained voltage, just that quick charge/discharge in between
Last edited by jstoner22; 10-01-2009 at 10:19 AM.
10-01-2009, 10:37 AM
#97
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 117
i thought the whole idea of the cap is because it CAN put out its power in 34milliseconds. a batt and alternator can't deliver it that quickly, even if they can put it out.
isn't it just a bandaid for a system that can keep up, but is just a little slow of its feet? if a system can't keep up it can't keep up. the cap just buffers a decent system for that .5 second or whatever it is to allow the batt/alt to actually deliver the power. after that it would be useless, but it isn't meant for sustained voltage, just that quick charge/discharge in between
isn't it just a bandaid for a system that can keep up, but is just a little slow of its feet? if a system can't keep up it can't keep up. the cap just buffers a decent system for that .5 second or whatever it is to allow the batt/alt to actually deliver the power. after that it would be useless, but it isn't meant for sustained voltage, just that quick charge/discharge in between
10-01-2009, 10:37 AM
#98
i geuss how i was trying to explain it is that, the bottom line is, MANY people correlate the word volume with power. if you turn up the volume on your deck, you are turning up the power it is putting out. if you turn up the "volume" on your amp, you are not altering its power levels, simply adjusting the sensitivity.
