Clarion DPX11500 amp
09-12-2006, 11:18 PM
#31
Originally Posted by UCA438
smartass quote "And a yellow top can continuly deliver 500-600Amps for over 40secs"
yes you are correct but you leaving out the fact that if an amp pulled 600amps for 40 secs continuous that battery woudl be completely dead, adn therefore take prolly 20 mins to fully charge froma rated 95 amp alternator, so if a battery is dead in a car and is pulling 600 amps it woudl therfore take what the alternator has to give and prolly blow it up with a drain of 600 amp , but befoire that the car would die, i am not stating that you cars max amp output will limit your amps max out short term but only continuos wattage output, what woudl and has always been a good way a determining an amps max outut before it blows up is to take the rated fuse on the side of the amp and multiply that time the cars voltage , that would be max power before that amp would implode! i laugh when i see an amps rating at 1000watts and has a 20 amp fuse in it, math,,,, 20amp x 14.4 288 watts continuos distortion or not!
yes you are correct but you leaving out the fact that if an amp pulled 600amps for 40 secs continuous that battery woudl be completely dead, adn therefore take prolly 20 mins to fully charge froma rated 95 amp alternator, so if a battery is dead in a car and is pulling 600 amps it woudl therfore take what the alternator has to give and prolly blow it up with a drain of 600 amp , but befoire that the car would die, i am not stating that you cars max amp output will limit your amps max out short term but only continuos wattage output, what woudl and has always been a good way a determining an amps max outut before it blows up is to take the rated fuse on the side of the amp and multiply that time the cars voltage , that would be max power before that amp would implode! i laugh when i see an amps rating at 1000watts and has a 20 amp fuse in it, math,,,, 20amp x 14.4 288 watts continuos distortion or not!
Yes ratings are messed but if I have 1000W rms amp and it has a 100Amp fuse and I have 40amps left over in my alt. I can still get my 1000W rms out of the amp without killing my system or battery. Hey listen im the first to say add batterys but come on here. There is thousands of people with 1000W rms amps with stock electrical systems and you dont see them broke down at the side of the highway do you?
BTW RMS ratings is draw X Voltage X efficiency.
09-13-2006, 06:58 AM
#34
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 172
well it has been interesting so far haha
09-13-2006, 07:31 AM
#35
Originally Posted by UCA438
That Exaclty What I Am Saying!! Why Do You Think Large Systems Required Multiple Batteries, If You Install An Amp That Will Requires More Amps That The Alternator Can Give Then It Will Start Taking Away From What The Car Needs To Run, Only After The Cars Battery Is Dead Of Course Which Wont Take Long, Therefore Headlight Dimming Woudl Be A Good Sign Of Gettin Close To Voltage Drops To The Cars Computers! I Been Doign This For 15 Yrs And I Am A Electronics Engineer And With 15 Yrs Installing I Know What I Know From What I Seen, Then Only Have I Done The Math, With Electronics Seeing Is Beliving And Math Sometimes Doesnt Equate.
By The Way The Clarion Amp Is In My Opnion The Best Buy Those Amps Rock, Killer Price For Killer Output, And Thats Based On My Ears!!! Not My Math And Really What Counts --- How It Sounds Right!
By The Way The Clarion Amp Is In My Opnion The Best Buy Those Amps Rock, Killer Price For Killer Output, And Thats Based On My Ears!!! Not My Math And Really What Counts --- How It Sounds Right!
This thread is being closed because of the amount of BS you're trying to spew.
I think we all know at least a few people who run much more than 1000w daily and have no electrical problems.
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