Maybe a little off topic but Iam planning on picking up a pair of 18" subs for my HT system next week..... problem is I move around alot and I can't be transporting an 8 cubic foot box wherever I please...

I was thinking about building a box out of 3/4" ply by just screwing the thing together (with added bracing of course) then seal with silicone so I can pull it apart later...

sound good ??

I was also thinking Id like to finish it in black vinear but I don't know where to buy any ???

I suppose if it was foam taped on all the seams that would be alright [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]

Use 2x2s around the edges as a frame as well. Ply doesn't take screws well in the edges.

18 inchers in a box that big will have a lot of stress without glue IMO.

i would use draw bolts to hold it togther.we use them to hold counter tops togther. http://cabinetmart.com/69-1420312.gif

[ October 21, 2005, 05:21 PM: Message edited by: hofulstrof ]

Good suggestions guys.... thats why I asked !

No one knows where I can buy black vinear ??? None of the building supply shops in my area seem to have it.....

Most likely you'll have to use a neutral wood vinear then stain it.

were you thinking of a whole bunch of small draw bolts in place of screws or like a few large ones to pressure fit the box together ??

I was just thinking that might be a good idea... that way I only have to deal with three large bolts instead of 100 screws when Iam busting it apart or putting it together....

If this thing was quick to put together, that would be PIMP !!!!!

well what im thinking is if he cuts the box in half or what ever you can use these to hold it back to togther. i cant seem to find to show what i mean

Use angle iron & bolts.

Attach the angle iron to the insides of the box, drill holes and tap threads into the angle iron...

Lay weatherstripping in the junction, and bolt 'er down.

Hey
GrizZz beat me to it. You can also use flat stock or angle iron on the outside (routed into the MDF) to keep the number of bolts down while maintaining the same clamping force.

If you move lots just make one side removable, when you go to move open it up & fill'er up. You would probably want to make each enclosure separate then.

Good Luck, J

More good idea's
[img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]

USe baltic birch.. thats the wood of choice for all P.A. equipment.. its firmer then MDF but its really really light in comparison. There are special corners that cabinet builders use... kind of like "male and Female" borders of the wood that would be really firm and (basically) airtight. I'd personally do that if you did use that "collapsable box" thing.


hope that helps.

Im not looking to spend an arm and a leg so I think regular void free oak will be good enough...

I know baltic is the best for weight and strength..... but on the other hand its a bit brittle in compairison....... ever see one end of a 200lb cabinate get dropped onto concreat... lol... ??

regular marine grade or just VF from hardwood is the best comprimise of box building materials IMO..... (MDF = yukk)

Ill be back home for slack week at school so Ill see what kind of materials and tools I can come up with to haul up to peterborough so I can get started....

oh ya, I have to get the subs too... (bigmans RE SX 18s and Iam going to try and steal a multi KW amp from my dad... lol.. )

You guys think this will be enough bass to go with my 600watt 5.1 pioneer system ??


I can't wait :D :D :D

[ October 23, 2005, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: Haunz ]

you should see if you can get your hands on some FORMICA ... that might be a nice finish for the enclosure... it even comes in stainless [img]smile.gif[/img]

if you plan it out right you will have no outter visible signs that the enclosure is colapsable... hint use the foam idea, angle iron and the bolts you posted a pic of... have the NUT end inside the enclosure [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ October 23, 2005, 05:59 PM: Message edited by: MTA ]