Greetings,

I am in the process of trying to plan out what I want to put in my 2003 VW GTI. I currently have an Alpine W505 head unit and I just want to flesh out the system. I am aiming for sound quality more than power.

As of right now, I am planning on the following:

Alpine 6.5" Type-X Reference comps up front
Alpine 6.5" Type-R coax rear for fill
Alpine PDX 4.150 powering the speakers
Alpine 10 or 12" Type-R sub in a custom sealed fibreglass enclosure (in spare)
Alpine PDX 1.600 powering the sub

I plan to use Dynamat Extreme on both doors and virtually everywhere in the hatch.

Please tell me if I'm heading in the right direction with this. I've never really got into the whole car audio thing before so I'd like some opinions before I go off and spend another grand or two.

Thanks!

 

Run the Rs of the deck, bi-amp the Xs. 12" sub.

 

your setup will be fine, I wouldn't bother to bridge the 4 channel to the X's, the power would be wasted (headroom is a good thing but you already have enough).

agreed on the 12"

 

True. What about a smaller amp then. Bi-amping improves sound quality and would be nice with Xs.

 

I think you are confusing "bi-Amping" with "Bridging"....or I am just confused, please elaborate.

 

I'm familiar with another VW GTI owner who "bi-amped" his PDX 4.150 to his Type-X Pros which gave them 300W each. That's the term he used for it, and he's fairly knowledgable.

Then again, I'm pretty new at this whole thing, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

To those who recommended the 12" sub: I listen to mostly rock music so I'm looking for a fast response. Is there going to be much of a difference as far as response between a 10 and 12?

 

my bad, wasn't aware that the type X crossovers were "bi-ampable"....would this make a difference with a regulated power supply??
Would you still not need another amp for this?..
What you described where he doubled his power is Bridging the amp.

 

Al from what I was told, the the type x's xovers have two inputs!

 

I'd recommend bi-amping, so you need 4 channel amp, each channel goes to a component. 1 channel for left woofer, 1 channel for left tweeter, 1 channel for right woofer, 1 channel for right tweeter. You will need to get rid of the passive crossover and get an active one. This way you can also change the crossover point.

 

Got what you're saying now, it was my confusion.

no experience with passives