Help, No output !
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 113
So let us know...
What impedance are your subs, are they single or dual voice coil, and how are they wired?
What really matters is how many voice coils you have (what impedance they each are also, obviously) and how they are wired.
And hopefully (fingers crossed) we can see a problem with what you have now!
If not, we've got other troubleshooting though, also.
What impedance are your subs, are they single or dual voice coil, and how are they wired?
What really matters is how many voice coils you have (what impedance they each are also, obviously) and how they are wired.
And hopefully (fingers crossed) we can see a problem with what you have now!
If not, we've got other troubleshooting though, also.
Thread Starter
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 58
Just got the email from plant audio,
The amp is stable at 8 ohm all the way down to 1 ohm
He said to check the grounds and the size of the wire. The ground is fine, and the wire size is 4awg
Any other ideas ???
The amp is stable at 8 ohm all the way down to 1 ohm
He said to check the grounds and the size of the wire. The ground is fine, and the wire size is 4awg
Any other ideas ???
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 113
Alright, that's a good thing..
two 4 ohm subs, hopefully you DO have them wired in parallel (to get the most power from your amp that you can), but really you can't do any wrong, seriously, in this case...
The WORST thing you could do would be to wire up a 2 ohm load, which is still way, way in the "easy load" range for the amp, since you mention it's 1 ohm stable.
So that's definitely ruled out.
Progress!
Now, the next step...
Did you do the troubleshooting I originally posted?
We want to know if the problem is that the signal stops coming from the head unit, essentially...
Or if the signal from another "source unit" does the same thing...
That will help us with the "is the problem the amp, or is the problem upstream of the amp?"
two 4 ohm subs, hopefully you DO have them wired in parallel (to get the most power from your amp that you can), but really you can't do any wrong, seriously, in this case...
The WORST thing you could do would be to wire up a 2 ohm load, which is still way, way in the "easy load" range for the amp, since you mention it's 1 ohm stable.
So that's definitely ruled out.
Progress!
Now, the next step...
Did you do the troubleshooting I originally posted?
We want to know if the problem is that the signal stops coming from the head unit, essentially...
Or if the signal from another "source unit" does the same thing...
That will help us with the "is the problem the amp, or is the problem upstream of the amp?"
Anyway...
Only thing that comes to my mind is to check the RCA cables if you used the same ones when testing with the other deck... if not that take the top off the amp and check out the RCA connections to the board... (seen these break off on amps that wern't mounted properly).....
Other then that.. check the subs... could be tinsel lead problem... ???
Other then that Iam stumped for now... good luck...
[ October 13, 2003, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: Haunz ]
Thread Starter
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 58
I tried a different set of RCAs on another system.
No difference.
I sent my amp in twice to get repaired, im pretty sure the company would have noticed any broken connections near the RCAs, The tinsel leads are fine, i checked both subs carefully.
Any other suggestions ?
Still can't find the problem
No difference.
I sent my amp in twice to get repaired, im pretty sure the company would have noticed any broken connections near the RCAs, The tinsel leads are fine, i checked both subs carefully.
Any other suggestions ?
Still can't find the problem
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 113
So it sounds like we've ruled out the possibility of the signal itself cutting out...
You used another head unit [and RCA's], and the amp did the same thing.
And during this time, the amp did not actually shut off, it's status light remained lit, fully.
So that would rule out the remote wire being disconnected or shutting off.
Also, we've verified that the load on the amp is acceptible.
We've also verified that the power and ground connections are good - the amp does actually work for a period of time.
I might doublecheck these connections, make sure they are solid, make sure the amp is grounded using a proper ring terminal and a good solid attachment point, bare-metal-to-metal (paint is an insulator), and the connection at the battery is good and secure.
But outside of that, we've troubleshot every single wire that's connected to the amp, verified them all as performing correctly.
My guess is that the amp IS defective (if the power/ground wires are solid and secure), but that the technicians didn't have the amp hooked up and running long enough to trigger the issue...
They hooked it up at the bench, they tested it, it performed, and since they didn't leave it running until it did fail, they sent it back to you 'verified OK'.
Is this a local place that you have trying to repair it? It sounds like they don't really understand what the issue is.
You used another head unit [and RCA's], and the amp did the same thing.
And during this time, the amp did not actually shut off, it's status light remained lit, fully.
So that would rule out the remote wire being disconnected or shutting off.
Also, we've verified that the load on the amp is acceptible.
We've also verified that the power and ground connections are good - the amp does actually work for a period of time.
I might doublecheck these connections, make sure they are solid, make sure the amp is grounded using a proper ring terminal and a good solid attachment point, bare-metal-to-metal (paint is an insulator), and the connection at the battery is good and secure.
But outside of that, we've troubleshot every single wire that's connected to the amp, verified them all as performing correctly.
My guess is that the amp IS defective (if the power/ground wires are solid and secure), but that the technicians didn't have the amp hooked up and running long enough to trigger the issue...
They hooked it up at the bench, they tested it, it performed, and since they didn't leave it running until it did fail, they sent it back to you 'verified OK'.
Is this a local place that you have trying to repair it? It sounds like they don't really understand what the issue is.
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 113
Sure...
If you suspect it's your sub at all, swap it with another one, that will present the amp with the same impedance.
That brings us back to our original suspicions... the sub.
Take it out, look it over, check for loose connections, bad wiring..
Even if it is the load connected to the amp, it might not be the actual subwoofer driver itself, it could be the wiring, connections, etc.
Subwoofers are ridiculously simple things themselves, there's not a lot that could go wrong with them, from an electrical/impedance standpoint, as long as it hasn't been abused or otherwise damaged.
If you suspect it's your sub at all, swap it with another one, that will present the amp with the same impedance.
That brings us back to our original suspicions... the sub.
Take it out, look it over, check for loose connections, bad wiring..
Even if it is the load connected to the amp, it might not be the actual subwoofer driver itself, it could be the wiring, connections, etc.
Subwoofers are ridiculously simple things themselves, there's not a lot that could go wrong with them, from an electrical/impedance standpoint, as long as it hasn't been abused or otherwise damaged.
