It probably won't happen for a while, though sometime i'd like to add a set of 8" subs into the system for the lacking midbass. The main thing i'm confused about is how the x-overs would be set.

So far, i have no idea where i'd put them, maybe in the rear doors? no idea as of yet. More importantly how would they be crossed in comparison with the front 6.5" comps and subs.

Subs currently crossed at like 80hz lowpass.
current 6.5" comps crossed at about 120hz or so.

would i make the 8" subs like 100hz and like 250? then up the 6.5" to around 250 or so?

If i'm not making sense at all....well surely you must have an idea of what im getting at...help!

I would have the 8" run from 80hz up to 200 and then the 6.5" from 250 to wherever. Why do you feel your lacking midbass? where are your speakers installed and are the doors sealed up and deadened?

they're in the doors....doors aren't sealed up and/or deadened properly no.

I just have a hard time believing that 6" speakers could make a comparable bass note to take off from where the subs get weak. Could just be me, but even the 8" subs in my home stereo are nothing super special.

All in all, are you try'n to tell me i should take care of the doors first? If so whats the best way to go about sealing them?

Adding sound dampening to the doors will definately improve the midbass performance from your midbass drivers.

Sound dampen your doors and also add a deflex pad behind each of your door mounted speakers. This will also improve your midbass response.

Dampen the doors and seal them up to. It should help. Whether you use the 6's or 8's, it will help. And it's cheaper than buying new speakers too. Also, put a layer of carpet underlay pad betwteen the door panel and the door skin. Should help with annoying vibrations and it's cheap.

I guess you've never heard some good 6" subs then [img]smile.gif[/img]

6s can be perfectly adequate for midbass. As with any midbass, superior performance will be achieved with a combination of: rigid mounting, sound deadening, isolating the back from the front, and power. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

That carpet underlay trick is a personal favorite.... also the "oneside-sticky" foam that comes with the Cascade door lits is great for stopping the annoying rattles from door lock mechanisms.

k....you guys probably know more about it than myself, so i'll take your word for it....and look into sound deadening the front doors (which i know should be done anyways - just never have cause i dunno what i'm doing, go figure.)

I had my doors sealed off with a layer of brown bread like this and the difference in midbass output from my 6.5" mids was amazing ...... I won't have a stereo without "deadened" doors again

also cross them over as low as they'll handle 0hz max and 50-60 hz preferably