Car Audio Forumz - The #1 Car Audio Forum

Car Audio Forumz - The #1 Car Audio Forum (https://www.caraudioforumz.com/)
-   General Discussion (https://www.caraudioforumz.com/general-discussion-10/)
-   -   Is this how I wire amp/sub (pic included) (https://www.caraudioforumz.com/general-discussion-10/how-i-wire-amp-sub-pic-included-2390/)

Gonad Jul 30, 2003 08:41 PM

Ok, I just bought an amp/sub and the required wiring kit and
wires. Here's what I have:
- Alpine MRP-M350 amp
- Alpine SWR-1041D Type R 10" DVC sub
- 4AWG amp wiring kit (20ft positive, 3ft negative)
- 40AMP fuse (and holder)
- Remote turn on wire
- Speaker wires (4 piece, at 4ft each)
- 8AWG positive/negative cable (4ft each)
- Zip ties and

Since my amp won't take a 4AWG power cable, it will need an
8AWG, so I will need to solder the 4AWG power cable that comes
from the battery, to an 8AWG cable which will then hookup to the
amp.

I could also use a capacitor or distribution block but I've chosen
not to at this point.

Here's the diagram. If anything is wrong in the picture, let me know

And yes, I did draw this in PS (took me like an hr), and yes I do
have too much time on my hands

http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/images/misc/ampwiring.jpg

[ July 30, 2003, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: Gonad ]

kelticslob Jul 30, 2003 09:08 PM

Why not just get spade connectors to go right into your amp? That'll save soldering 2 wires together.

Gonad Jul 30, 2003 09:15 PM

I'll look into spade connectors or a distribution
block...whichever is the cheapest alternative...

Chadxton Jul 30, 2003 09:28 PM

Polarity is reversed compared to the legend.
Make sure the black is negative, and that's used for ground.

Gonad Jul 31, 2003 10:45 AM

Yea I totally forgot that I switched the polarity.

It's not something I would make a mistake on when
actually wiring the thing up..just a stupid
mistake in my drawing [img]smile.gif[/img]

maltesechicken Jul 31, 2003 10:50 AM

Or what you could do is you could have 4AWG go into one side of the Fuse holder and the 8 awg out the other. That would save you from soldering. Just you would need a fuse holder that handles both 4 and 8 AWG. Make sure that the fuse you use - regardless of how you wire it, will be small enough to protect the 8 AWG.

One thing also missing on the diagram is the remote turn on from the deck. You'll need that if you want the deck to turn the amp on ;)

[ July 31, 2003, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: maltesechicken ]

Chadxton Jul 31, 2003 10:55 AM

You can probably use 4 gauge right to the amp, although it's not necessary. Just strip the wire 2cm, untwist the end, and separate it into 2 or 3 sections. Cut one or two of them until you have a small part of wire sticking out about the size of 8 ga wire. Cut it back about half cm to 1cm, twist it, and then feed it into the terminal.

Gonad Jul 31, 2003 11:38 AM

Well I edited the diagram above. I think I will
just get a distribution block so it looks cleaner
and since I plan on gettin another amp later on
to power my other speakers.

As for the power cable, I will just leave the
4AWG running from trunk to battery and use the
8AWG in the trunk to the amp and such.

Mustang 5.0 Jul 31, 2003 11:47 PM

I see you have your sub wired up parallel. I don't know the impedance of your sub but just make sure that your amp is stable down to whatever impedace you have.

Team Shadow Aug 1, 2003 07:34 AM

whatever you decide to use(guage) for power match it or better for the ground. don't with 8 on ground if your pwr is 4 . go 4 on both or 4 on pwr and 1 on grnd. always equal or better the grnd. including all the factory grnds.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:27 AM.


© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands