how many speakers do i need?
 

right now i have a set of 6.5s and a set of 5.25s and it doesnt seem to be producing enough mid range sound. i have 2 12" subs aswell. do i just keep adding in more 6.5s? should i add in oval speakers? is there any sort of formula i should be following?

are you running your speakers off an amp? or off the head unit? ever try a set of components? I only run front speakers, one set of components off an amp.

Add 3 more 6.5's and 7 6x9's.

yes i have a amp running each set. i have lots more amps here if i need them. im not sure what the deal is with component speakers. it seems that if you use regular speakers on a amp with a cross over built in you get the same effect.

The deal with speakers, is that they need to be different sizes to play different frequencies.
A minimum requirement is that the tweeter is not allowed to "see" any frequencies less than treble, and need a capacitor in line to block the bass.
Everything else is allowed to play wherever in a regular co-axial speaker. Unfortunately this means that the tweeter is still allowed to play some midrange, that is at its resonant frequency, resulting in a very bright, distorted, peak.
The mids are allowed to play some highs, that they don't do very well either.
The only way to get rid of the distortion is to turn down the anooying tones that go to each component.
More caps, and coils are used on good components, to turn down the offending frequencies. Each addition of parts, causes a 3 dB drop in volume, but the SQ improves. 3dB drop requires twice the power to achieve the same volume.

So...Compnents are not only more expensive to buy and install, but they cost twice as much to power as well.
But it is SO worth it!
Try listening to Annie Lennox on a set of co-axials. She'll tear your ears out.
Try again with a properly installed set of comps, with 60 watts or so(compared to 15 from a deck), and she's actually quite bearable.

Passive devices like caps and coils turn the power into heat. 1/2 the power of your amp is usually wasted through any passive crossover.
An even better way to get high volume with low distortion, is to use an amp channel for each component, with an active crossover. This way there is no power wasted going through passive devices that can turn 3/4 of your power into heat.
Now you're back to the efficiency of cheap co-axials, with the clarity of the finest compnents...Probably better, since the tunability is improved as well.
Your battery and alternator will thank you in the long run if you choose this route.
(Since I can no longer edit after 10 minutes...it takes me that long to get another Bud.)

:smilie_da