How much does each one cost to put on a '05 Mazda Tribute?

A lot, in any vehicle.

Air would be better in a vehicle like that though as it probably has sub-frames instead of a full frame.....even if it did have a full frame it would needto either be boxed in or re-inforced in specific spots.

Depends on a lot of things, 4X4 forget about it, it will triple your labor. 2 wheel drive will need notches/shock relocations welded on/components in your engine bay relocated/ not sure about the rear in a truck we just cut a section out of the bed.

Standard air ride installed runs 5G's around here, hydros start at 5G's

^ not entirely true.

A lot will depend on what shock set-up you run as well.

If you run struts in the front, you can run an air strut, which is a strut with the coil replaced by a bag.

If you also have rear struts, the same applies.

Depending on your 4x4 set up, a lot could need to be done depending on the suspension travel the air ride creates. Drive shafts could need to be lengthened, control arms may need modification....I think the Tribute is all wheel drive so, you may be spending more than you planned.

I have no idea what air ride could cost, I have a CCE hydro set-up in my basement that I got cheap but if you are buying new, plan on spending 10K after labour for a basic set-up.

I've seen basic sets, out of the box, for 2G's, installation is another subject though...

There are plenty of things that are capable of going wrong with an air ride setup. Thats what turned me off it.

besides, it takes away all the space for the subs ;)

it's 2WD

Does your mom know you want to **** up her ride? [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

maybe... [img]smile.gif[/img]

Air struts can run 800US each depending on application, I'm not quoting crap components that some company sells cause they will just break or not fit properly and cause you more labor.

get a setup made for your application, problems with hydros is for them to work to there fullest potential they may need 3 or more batteries( can be put in a tray under the truck or in the hatch area, either or it adds Wight and space consumption.
I worked with hydraulic applications for years ( heavy duty) nothing lasts forever so have a spare hose handy to slap on to get you home just in case ;)

As for air ride stay away from the exhaust!

Also.. the auto hydraulic systems i have seen always ran on 48V forklift batteries, have a seperate voltage gauge, nothing sucks more then slamming to the ground and not having the power to raise back up and doing the scrape thing alllll the way home..

those mini SUV's dont exaclty have a lot of wheel well room, either....which could be trouble in a setup.

Most trucks that can drop ALL the way down have their wheel wells cut out for travel distance, or they have TINY wheels (a la 13"s on many impala's, etc) so that the wheels dont interfere with the suspension 'travel'/

I was quoted 1500-2000 in the rear (leaf) and 2000-3000 in the front (2bl shocks) in my 4wd Blazer, including labour, for air ride....
but my truck is not as much labour as many of the smaller/newer ones, simply due to space and working area.

PS.

If you are not bouncing, frame reinforcement is not necessarily needed, depending on the vehicle.

Its probably a good idea, but since most air ride systems are not 'high impact' like the full hydro setup the frame wrapping is not as mandatory.

Also...just keep in mind....these setups are not maintenance free...no matter what people say. As soon as you start f'ing with suspension and ride, its only a matter of time before you'll start to break things, reegard;ess of components or usage,

If you wanna play, you're gonna pay, basically.

Have fun!

^ agreed.

Also, forget using air in the winter.

I just about guarantee you'll get some condensation in the lines, once that freezes, you'd be wise not to use the system.

My buddy's Bonneville had basic air set-up, same deal happened to him in the winter.

He went to lift the front of the car and snapped both lines. Not a cheap fix either.

Basically if you want a shop to put in whatever setup of either air or hydraulics,your gonna pay for whatever fabrication you need to put it in plus your setup,for your vehicle Id suggest air,because like stated above your ride probably dosent have a full frame,hydraulics on a uni will rip your car apart eventually depending on how you treat it,the install,reinforcements ect ect what voltage you run it at blah blah blah,I have a juiced cutlass,adn Im waiting for a few more parts then Ill be putting air in my caprice,basically both have thier advantages and disadvantages,and you can basically make either or perform close to the same with lots of variables included in that,all in all its just another personal preference

If you are serious about it, take a drive across the border and get a reputable custom shop to do it you will probably save some money .(it can be hard finding a reputable one I've heard lots of horror stories about shops in the states installing air systems and doing a complete hack job). The US is way ahead of the game when it comes to this. Also if its a daily driver don't do it, too many things can happen, popped bag, busted airline (steel braided air lines are the best for wear and tear. Just do a regular non adjustable drop(coils etc.)I would only attempt it to a show only vehicle. If you want it done in Canada drop these guys a line
www.teampneumatik.com/home.html
I would love to bag my truck but its way too expensive and not practical for my daily driver

I was just looking to find out prices to see if its worth it or not, I wouldn't be abusing it, I'd just lower it for normal driving so its more stable then whenever theres some debre or bumpy roar and whatnot raise it again. And of course to show off from time to time.

[ May 06, 2005, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: Fr0z3N ]

Blah Blah Blah, there are so many misinformed people here. Not using them in the winter? I guess we better stop shipping everything by truck in the winter then huh? There are plenty of Canadian's who can put air ride in just as good as any American. It's really not that hard unless you start doing body drops etc.

same as any compressor you need a line to collect your moisture, ect ect, there are many things to learn, however rigs have heat in there lines so there air lines won't break< for get the term its like a hair dryer that keep the lines from freesing..

I agree that there are many Candian shops that can do it, Getting it done in the US would cost less than doing it here.

Yea ever look at an air ride system in a truck? Obviously not.

They have a tank that keeps condensation out of the lines, which on a regualr car will cost upwards of $1000 on top of the actual air ride system.

Hmm, misinformed....no, maybe give your head a shake and think before you open your mouth about something you know nothing about.

they have tanks and lines.

Newer trucks have hot air blown through the lines straight from the compressor.

okay so this got a little bit off topic eh??? Alright I believe that the Tribute has an independant rear suspension setup and is uni-body(I very well could be wrong though). If I am correct, then first off laying out will not happen, and installation will be much cheaper and fabrication of parts will be very little. With the independant rear suspension you will be able to run an air shock that will basically fit in the stock shock location with little modification if any. Alot of the installation you can do your self such as running airlines and power connections. If I were you I would look into a belt driven compressor because the standard electric ones are loud if it is mounted in the cabin and not to the underbody.
One great shop that is in Burlignton called Casual Customs did my buddies S-10 and it lays frame in the front and body in the rear without a body drop. I know they have LOTS of experience with your type of install and do amazing work. Here is a link to the website:
www.casualcustoms.ca

Hmm, I have installed four systems, 2 of them are daily driven year round maybe give your head a shake and have a proper design and take care of it and you won't have problems.

The system in the Bonneville was done at a local shop in Whitby by Benji...who I have met more than a few times and his own cadillac has been in MANY magazines...I've seen the system myself, it was done properly and yet it has problems in the winter.

The guy didn't wanna spend the money to keep the condensation out of his lines, and if Frozen also can't spend that money he will have problems too.

It's not just a matter of doing a proper system, it's the lack of money for most people.

Just get a torch out and heat up your coils untill they turn red then get some buddys to push up and down on the hood untill it sits how you like it

heating the coils changes the spring ratio and will make the car too bouncy when it sits at its new lower level. You wont like it. Your car will bottom out when you roll over a cigarette. Same goes for cutting spring.

if you are going to lower your vehicle, do it properly.

I'd personaly reccomend some simple coilovers and stiffel springs. it will be cheap and you can rasie and over your car in the different seasons.

What do you think happens when you have air or dro's without accumulators?

Messing with spring steel is a very unwise thing to do anyway.

Why would air make your car bouncy? It is sounding more and more like you haven't been in a properly set up system. They are called air springs for a reason, and they are no more bouncy than a factory coil spring. It's the shocks job to stop the bouncing, and you should still have shocks with an air ride setup.

nope, been in many properly set up systems...air and hydro....all bouncy, except the one with accumulators.

I bet KelownaSwangin's car is bumpy as hell too....it's got Dro's, Benji's car is bumpy, every tractor-trailor I've rode in/drove is bumpy(air ride). though, on a rig, the air is more for load handling than anything else....imagine the size of the leafs or coils that would be needed.

WHat ride height are you driving at? Anything lower than stock is going to get bumpy compared to stock. I drove in a VW with air ride, and it was much smoohter than stock.

Am I wrong or don't top end Expeditions, Escalades, and a number of luxury rides come with air springs for either load or ride height adjustment? They're pretty much like driving a sofa.

yea, when lowered or lifted a bit it's very bumpy, at stock ride height(or thereabouts) it was still bumpier than I like.

Of course my Park Ave had air bags(stock) and it was like driving a couch down the road like Dukk said.

Expeditions don't...there coils and leafs.

Lincoln Towncars',most Cadillacs and I believe Mercedes,Lexus and Infinity use air in some cars....there's more I'm sure I missed too.

My Park Ave had air bags....The compressor burnt out so I let the air out of the bags so it was lowered....that was cool for about 10 mins.

My car rides like a stock car,with hydros it depends on what tonnage of coils you use with how your car is built,I have shocks in the rear and that helps out alot aswell

The ride quality with air ride all depends on the amount of bag pressure you have. 135 PSI will be just like riding in a Civic with chopped coils, 75 PSI will be just like riding in a lincoln, if everything else is done right. Air ride was originally used to increase ride quality and towing capabilities until one day someone thought it would be fun to go up, down, side to side. Pretty much if you have a proper set-up, which is (for pick-ups) full length shocks and control arms in the front, and in the rear: full length shocks, a four link or three link (no mono leaf crap) properly installed c-notch and bag mounts, you will have an awesome ride.