Kaption / Kicker / JL / Kenwood... let me know if this sounds alright
 

I've pieced together what I'm going to call my masterpiece... but I've been out of car audio for about 15 yrs so this might all be middle ground or worse. You guys tell me.....

2005 Grand Prix (olde but a goody)

Head Unit: Sony CDX-GT805DX (I'm thinking the best head unit they ever made)
Front Speakers: Kaption CL 605 Components (6")
Rear Speakers: Kicker KS-600's (6", I'm not fond of 6x9's)
Sub: Kicker 12" Comp CVT (2 ohm)
HP Amp: JL Audio J2 320 4 Channel Amp (60w RMS x4 @ 4ohm)
LP Amp: Kenwood Excelon KAC-X10D (600w RMS x1 @ 2ohms)

Only thing installed as of yet is the head unit. The rest goes in on Monday. I'm pretty pumped about the whole thing as I've been piecing it together for over a year now.

I don't have a wiring preference, but should I?

Every and all comments welcome!

Welcome back! Sounds like a good start. I too have been out of car audio for 15 years and have gotten back into it.

Don't forget to have ample power to your amps from the battery and ground. See the chart in this forum. I suggest going bigger on the power wire since you are just getting back into it and will more than likely want to either add more power or change something in the future. This will eliminate the need to tear apart your car just to upgrade the power wire. Careful planning should go into your wiring. I've been back in car audio for 3 months and already wish I had put in more speaker wire for expansion and tuning options.

I'd have to agree with you. Before my instal has even been done the Kaption's and the JL sub were recent upgrades (last week). I'm already thinking 4 8's (one in each door).

Thanks for the advise. Where would a guy find the wiring info you mentioned?

When you go to buy power wire make sure it is copper - not CCA - Copper Clad Aluminum.

Thanks Tony.
Keep the tips rolling in.
I'm actually surprised no one has beaten me up over the Sony head unit.

Well, I've gotta say I'm pretty disappointed here.

Had my Kicker Sub and Kenwood Amp installed today (high's going in tomorrow).

I've gotta say I don't believe the sub/amp setup I have is enough. So, let me ask this question:
What is an "above average" RMS rating for an amp that will rattle your head a little when you crank it up?

I can't even recall my previous setup (was 15 yrs ago) but the MTX amp and JL sub I had was enough to make a person not see straight when you turned it up. This current set I have is something a heck of a lot less.

Help a brother out!

I'm driving my 12" Kicker CVT (rated at 400 Watts RMS) with a Kenwood Excelon 600 Watt RMS.

We sell kenwood and at the price point they seem like agood deal, but I still wont install one of their amps in my vehicles. Sorry but they just dont cut it. I would suggest the kicker 750.1 or even the 400.1 would out perform that kenwood. They claim 1 ohm stable but I havent seen one that can handle it.

It could also be the enclosure the sub is in. Ported or sealed, and prefab or custom built. My loudest systems have always been custom built.

I just got back in the game a couple years ago myself and I deffinately see a difference between what used to be and what is now. Could be the class a/b circuitry to the class d. Class d is easier to make power with, alot less heat. AN oldschool soundstream reference amp that supposedly put out 75w would just get freakishly loud.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with CCA wiring. I bet you any money my CCA wiring out-does any wiring you choose at half the price.

Super curious why you have a shallow mount woofer in a trunk car.

Interesting.. got some details to back that up.

If anyone is interested check out the TrueSpec vs CCA video on the left side of the stinger site http://stingerelectronics.com/

CCA is fine - until you really draw a large amount of power on it for the gauge your using. Problem is most guys don't do that.

For the few extra bucks as a % of the cost of kit - use copper... unless your the type of guy who likes to run his performance car on 29 dollar tires??

IMO.