Most powerful 5.25 coaxials out there?
 

Anyone know of a pair of 5.25 coaxials that can handle more than 100W RMS?
Preferably less than 2.25" mounting depth.
Would prefer 2 ohms, but 4 is fine too.

infinity can prob handle close to that and they are 2ohm

What model? I've looked into Infinity on their website thinking that they had something too, but can't find anything that powerful.

Kappa - 55RMS
Reference - 45RMS

on the sound board i run 120ish watts rms to the kappas and the ref coax and they take it no prob. just set the gains on the amp properly and you should be fine

rockford fosgate power series 5.25 coaxial takes 60rms
image dynamics ctx 5.25 coaxial takes 60rms
cdt 5.25 coaxials and components take anywhere from 60-90rms

Right now I have the Kicker KS60 rated at 60W RMS.

I've been looking at the Alpine 5.25" SPR-13C rated at 90W RMS. They're the most powerful I've seen so far, but I'm hoping somebody has seen something else.

I originally wanted to get the 6 1/2" SPR-17C at 100W RMS but they're too big for the existing cutouts, and too deep so the window won't go down all the way.

I have the RF Power series 6x9s on my rear deck, and I think I have blown one of the tweeters on them with 100W RMS, so I won't be going with RF again.

As for the other suggestions, they match my existing power level.

I'm looking for something that can take more excursion and put out more bass than the Kickers I have now, and have a more powerful tweeter that can handle the high power being poured into the driver.

if your going to go that route, i'm going to suggest some pro audio brands like selenium, DLS, and others. you can find them on www.partsexpress.com

Morel speakers handle a lot of power and sound amazing..even their pulse "low end" co-axials handle 110 watts and 250 watts music power in a 5.25". here's the link:

Morel Loudspeakers - Mobile Audio - Point Source Speakers - Pulse Coax

Hybrid Audio Clarus C51-2: 90 watts (musical input)
“Musical input” means power handling with respect to listening to full-range music, not high-amplitude test tones or musical material with excessively low frequency and/or high amplitude bass tones.
They're 4ohm though.
MSRP is $577.99 +tax

Morel for sure, I am not sure about the mounting depth issue but will look into that for you when I make it into the shop later today. (I am supposed to be putting siding on right now).

Look into DLS.

I have a set of UP6 components in the front and they are rated for 150 WRms iirc.

Many of the low/mid level DLS sets are rated relatively high, but as many here will tell you, power handling is only ONE aspect of the driver, and you should consider other features before making a decision based just on pwer handling.

John

i had my focal access 6.5 on my 4 channel infinity bridged to 2 channels, some were around 200 rms a side and they loved it

What I presume he means is how much a voice coil can handle thermally. And he asked for coaxials, but since I see a lot of component sets being thrown around, I will have to say that DLS Nobelium has a 3" voice coil, so imagine that. It seems at least 500 wrms a side is in order. Thats pretty funny.

Well I've got a JBL 4 channel amp rated for 100W channel at 4 ohms, and about 130W channel at 2 ohms.

I know it's not alot, but I'm just looking for something that will take all that power and utilize the capacity of the amp to throw out some more volume, without blowing and having to swap them out.

This is going to be my 3rd purchase of mids/highs.

Check this link out. Don't think you'll have the money to spend on these though. Just copy and paste the link bro.

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_product.aspx?category_id=14&family_id=136&prod uct_id=401

Or even this one is good as well. Copy and paste the link as well.

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_product.aspx?category_id=14&family_id=20&produ ct_id=297

Those looks really cool.

Too bad they're too deep for my door mounting depth, and apparently cost an arm and a leg even on ebay.

One thing nobody has pointed out so far is the fact that those factory ratings are based on feeding the speakers a full range signal. If you take a closer look at the specs they probably start at 50hz or so up to 20Khz. In a properly set-up system your 5.25" fronts are going to be high-pass filtered much higher than that. Typical installs without front midbass drivers are set at at least 80hz, if you have mercy on the speakers you might set it as high as 120hz.

I have usually found that a 5.25" component set or coax can handle at least twice the rated power if all the sub and most of the midbass is removed from the signal. I have JL XR series components in my work van rolled off at 400hz and feed them 150w no problem. However, I also use 2 Orion MB6 midbass drivers in each door for the bottom end, cutting them off at 80hz and letting my subs handle the grunt work.

While midbass frequencies do form part of the stereo image, some people find getting midbass from larger (6 X 9") drivers in the rear of the vehicle is acceptable. Some others find that the image is distorted or 'mushy' for lack of a better word at the moment and they either use a larger (6.5") driver up front or add dedicated midbass drivers. Unfortunately, either one of these solutions adds to the difficulty and cost of doing the install.....:dunno:

HTH

love it

I currently use 6x9s on the rear deck but am swapping them out with 6.25's since I read an article saying how they distort the bass, because their oval shape has the cone restricted by the surrounds at the far narrow ends. Push a 6x9 upward from behind and you can see the resistance on the ends. The argument is that apparently the only reason they even make oval speakers are to have a factory drop-in replacement for cars. High end home audio speakers are usually nothing but round.

I wanted to use all 6.25s but my front doors will not allow the mounting hole size or depth without some modifications I can't be bothered with to do, so I gotta go with 5.25s.

Right now, there's practically no bass except from my sub, and I have a gap in the mid-bass I'd like to fill.

I've tried going without rear fill, and it just doesn't sound right.

It's a pain alright......the newer, more streamlined cars have much wider rear decks than the "good" old days......I'd like to see one of the manufacturers start using 8" round coaxs in the rear, with the right amp most people would think there was a sub hidden away somewhere.......:smilie_da

The worst ones had to be the 4" X 10" whizzer cones GM put in the Le Mans or the Cutlass coupes back in the day.....yikes!

I would suspect that the average listener in a car would not have the tunes loud enough to cause those issues with oval speakers to be very audible. Considering the cone area for a 6X9 is pretty close to an 8" round speaker it will move almost as much air, and oddly enough the oval shape seems to be holding it's own with almost all the vehicle makers due to space restrictions in certain areas.

It's only us car audio junkies that discover these little problems.....:lol_hitti :laugh:

That's exactly the reason for the oval shape, to equal the same cone area as a standard 8" speaker, but of course, 9 watts RMS off the deck isn't really going to move much air...

you should check out Image Dynamics X69 midbass with cd1 horns, very efficiant you dont need much power but they are VERY loud although a little harder to install. Neo magnents as well so shallow

If you are driving a Ford and the factory size is 5x7", then a 6.75" speaker can go there with the proper abs mounting template adaptor. This will also add 1/4" of extra mounting depth as well. Another option here is to use the Eclipse 5x7" pointsource speakers. The tweeters are removeable should you want to make them a true component speaker. They sound amazing and are budget friendly as well.

As far as the drivel that you read about the distortion of a oval speaker goes, what is measured and what you hear are two totally different things. I know these speakers sound good, this is why I would recommend them.