Seems for some reason my USA-2000x kicked the can. It just needs some things de-soldered and replaced, anyone know of a place to do this? I have been trying to desolder the damn parts and its not as easy as i thought it would be.

add gobs of solder to the 3 pins - swirl your iron
around a bit.. the remove part with plyers.
Then suck up the rest of the solder with a sucker.

I have one of the desoldering irons from radio shack. Prolly not the best for de-soldering but its all i could find. I just cant seem to get the solder to heat up and get sucked up on some of the places. I dont wanan scratch up the board anymore than I have already so if someone knows a place in the GTA that will repair it for fairly cheap that would be awesome.

chem wick is what you want for desoldering
connections radio shack will have this
do not use solder to heat up your connection.

once the chem wick has sucked all the solder off the part you can remove safely however some parts
can be double printed and soldered on both sides of the board carefull not to heat it up to much.

good luck!!

Good luck getting that to work with most transistors.. maybe I had a bad brand.

[url]http://www.radioshack.ca/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=RadioShack&category=Soldering+Tools&pro duct=6402090[url]

is that what you recommend? I hope that stuff will work cause I wanna get down to active surplus and get the replacement parts ASAP.

thats the stuff [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

the place your buying your parts should also carry chem wick maybe cheaper [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]

Aight i will go check it out tommorow, thanks for the help [img]smile.gif[/img] . I just hope im not ****ing up the board of my amp and that this will fix the problem. Now if I could only figure out why the amp will stay on without the remote wire even connected:(.

thanks for the tip on the desoldering btraid, that helped make the process easier. I still need to go down to active surplus to get the replacement parts. Pretty much what im guessing happened is the amp overheated from being on for a very long time and blew the amplifier section on the board. 18 of those cylinder cap looking pieces blew and the amp goes straight into protection if it was hooked up. I still dont know how im suppose to figure out why the remote part of the amp is busted and the amp wont turn off.

Anyone know what I should be looking for on the board as far as the remote connection to turn the amp on?