We must be about the same age

 

So if i bridged them to get the 180w rms im asuming that that would be to much power to run one sub? since the sub is about 125.
and since i cant wire the 2 subs together to make a 4 ohm load i cant put the subs and amp together...????

 

You can run the one sub and keep the gains turned down and be alright. You can also run both subs by wiring one sub to each channel.

 

ok i think im starting to understand now.


Any way i think ive figured almost every thing out about how im going to wire it into my car but i have a couple more questions.

I would need a LOC for this amp since i have a stock head unit?

Also if those 4 prongs are for remote on/off thing and since i have a stock head unit how would i wire them into my car. Like i beleve i can wire them into my accesories circut but do i just hook all the prongs together or somthing?


THX for the help guys i really appreciate it.

 

I think at this point, considering the amp and that you are dealing with a stock deck, you should go talk to Shaughn at Visions in Red Deer.

For what he will charge to put in that amp, it's likely worth it than potentially messing it up.

 

I don;t know what you are talking about - I'm only 21

 

Ok so i got every thing figured out i beleive.... but my idiot brother was playing with one of the subs and the canter cone fell off.... Can i just glue it back on with some silicon or somthing?

 

decent amp though. Would be good for running an 8" sub bridged or a couple 6x9 - possibly a pair of 6" mids in an average system. These older Pioneers were underrated amps. The next line of GM Hxxx amps they came out with in 1992 were better SQ amps, but if you can pick one of those Gm 1000 or Gm 2000 amps up for 25-50 bucks I'd go for it if you aren't hoping to drive a pair of 12s off it or compete. (yes this is an old thread, but these show up from time to time and are great for someone starting out with an old-school build)

 

SEVEN year old thread...