TheLastGeek

So I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla. Wondering what I should do next.
4 Gauge Kicker wiring
Pioneer DEH-X8500BH
JBL GTO24001 Grand Touring
RE Audio XXX12D2 Sub in custom box
Infinity Kappa 509cs
Infinity Kappa 693.9l

I was thinking:
0 gauge wire to the trunk
amplifier for Kappas, maybe a Kappa 4 or Kappa 5?
alternator, high output
10 farad capacitor

What is going to do the most for me for my sub is a main question:
10 farad capacitor?
high output capacitor?
0 gauge wire?
2nd battery in trunk?

gramser57

iTrader: (1)

The best thing to do with your sub setup is sell it and get the proper Voice coil configuration for your amp. Your amp is 2 ohm stable and the options you have with a D2 sub is 1 ohm or 4ohm, chances are you are wired at 4 ohm and underpowering that XXX by alot.

IT Hz

iTrader: (1)

Your current draw will dictate what gauge power wire will be needed.

lpchouinard

stay at 4 ohms, the extra 700w is not worth it. (around 1db more) and 4GA is usually good up to 150A if going from the front to the back, so right now for that amp your 4GA is too small

1st, 2nd battery in the back (something like a Kinetik HC2000 or similar "sealed") with at least 2 of the big3 (chassis to ground and engine to ground) using 4GA or 1/0 if you think you will go with the HO alt. upgrading the alt I found worthless since the factory wire already support the max amp the alt can put out.

This alone if you are not driving your system to the max for long period will be your best bet. you can keep your 4GA since the high current will mainly be from the 2nd batt to the amp (short run of 4GA can handle it)

Now if you're a basshead then you will need the battery and a HO alt to keep up with the demand and eliminate any dimming. Also since the HO alt will be putting over 150A in current you will need to upgrade your main to 1/0 (if your on a budget CCA will work but for a little more go with OFC/Welding cable).

Capacitor for high current demand like your amp is asking is worthless.

In your case you need at least another battery, I recommend you use an isolator to prevent damage to both battery if not identical. Next would be to work on your box and then have an HO alt installed if you can find one.

If you can't find and you have room, have a braket made to add a second one and go with a generic HO alt with external regulator that will only power the battery in the back and your audio system leaving the stock electrical for the car.

cheddarbiscuit

I love when people estimate spl gains by power added....

although that statement was stupid, the rest of the post was pretty much dead on. He's not going to need a high output alternator. And I have never used an isolator and never had an issue. The only time you need one imo is if you plan on playing music for really long periods of time with the car off.

lpchouinard

What's your theory?


Remember same sub, same box same everything but 700w more going to that sub.

When I model any sub and compare the SPL gain, it's just over 1db going from 1750w to 2400w.

cheddarbiscuit

Modeling in BBP or any program rarely shows the same on a TL... it could be .2 db it could be 2 db. That twice the power = 3db is a total fallacy in the real world.

lpchouinard

Me or the OP never mentioned a TL or competing for that matter. OP wants to know what he could do to get more bass. If it's for competing fine, but I never mentioned it would give him an extra dB on the meter.

My point was that going from 1750w to 2400w is worthless (theoretically a little over a dB) in term of output, this will not give him more bass, well not enough to notice.

Please if you are to call someone comment stupid, at least explain why. I understand your point when it comes to compete in SPL, i've been there and experienced it myself, but for most car audio enthusiast, it's what they feel that’s most important.

In my van I managed to scored 144 something on the meter off a sundown 3500D, previously I scored a 141 off a Arc Audio KS1000.1 with the same box/speaker. Yup only 3db with a little over 3 times the power, but the fun fact is that when I scored the 141 i've auditioned some of the others guys setup that beat me and yes some were louder than me, but other were not. This all because of the location of the TL sensor (peak freq, could have play a role too ill admit).

All this to say that whatever the TL says, it doesn't also always mean it's louder because the meter say so. For me when it comes to music, the important part how I perceive sound, not a sensor on a wind-shield, but ill admit it's a nice tool to somewhat help you measure if what you have done help or not.