option, opignion, quotes, ideas
 

I WANT MIDBASS lol im looking for great midbass. first off just to let you guys know i will be dynamating the doors. 2 layers outside 1 behind and 2 under the plastic. and maybe the plastic too. AND i will be making a pod in the door that is able to hold either 2 6.5 or 1 8".

SOOOOO i would prefer to run 2 way but if i need to go 3 i guess i could... i wont run active on this one till later on when i have more cash for amps and blah blah blah.

i would say around 800$ would be all i can have for front speakers. and since i cant really audition some good stuff here i will have to put my trust in you guys lol.

SOOO for vendors if you have and idea PM me with a quote on what might work. ( also i like laid back speakers more :P )

i was thinking of using tang band stuff but they mostly need an enclosure. ( witch i cant do in the door lol ) JL has the 8" midbass but then i would have to make it 3 way since it only does from 50-500hz

anyway enough of talk right now lol sorry for the long post ill awnser to any Q's

A good midbase is the pioneer PRS set. I have the 5 1\4 inch in small sealed (well actually semi vented) kick pannels and I actualy prefer to xover them into the midbase region over the much acclaimed peerless SLS 8's that are residing in my doors.

I have used the daytons RS 8's and they were pretty good and wen decently high (maybe 1khz) but I didn't feel they went high enough to go well with any tweet I had on hand.

i could also just get a midbass 8" driver and set my deck HPF at 50 and run them on theyre own amp and block the frequency over 500hz. and use a normal comp set for the rest off theyre own amp and Xover. also look like what your doing AAAAAAAA right?? or pretty dam close

my plan was to get 8" or 2 6" for midbass and run a 4" component set on dash in a fiberglass pod.

i dont know if this is just a crazy idea lol. and having midbass in the doors and highs on dash will it sound "off" as of imaging?

If you have room for the dual 6" combination, that is a ideal way to go. With the deal on the MB Quart PVI216 components right now ($300pr), add the PVI164 add a midbass driver to the set. MB Quart -- Home Audio, Car Audio, and Nautic Audio for info on the speakers. I have one pair (maybe two) left of these speakers at this price and being at home right now am unsure of the price of the add a midbass option.

just waiting on price for the DD W6.5 ill get these this spring ( 2 sets ) 2 in each door running on 300watts rms a door.

currently waiting on a price for a 4" component set for the dash. either morel, MB quart or CDT

looking at around 300$ shipped for a set sooooo lets see what i can get lol



hurry up spring. this install should be sweet and fun to do and will be posting pics of the build

i would still preffer a dual midbass lol i want some punch in the front. and mids and tweet can play in a smaller driver

If you want real midbass you cannot replace 3-ways. 2-way system by design will either be 50/50 on midbass and midrange or the ratio can go either way, but you will never have 100% of both in one speaker. You can get great results with a very good speaker, but that could be costly. It is hard for one speaker to cover a really wide freq range, especially if you want to cross HPF low at around 50-60hz, then your midrange will suffer. But I think you know that already. So, yeah, that 4" set with a dedicated midbass will be great.

And to answer your other question, try keeping the midrange and tweets as close as possible, midbass could be sitting lower. Semi-active is your way to go. Passive on tweets and 4" speakers on one amp, and dedicate one amp for the midbass speakers, which should be designed for midbass duty.

I have tried it that way to, but I prefer to have my PRS mids playing down to 80hz and play up to 2.5khz. I prefer their punch and crispness to the 8inch's midbase.

My "midbase" door speakers are actually playing 80hz down so they are really my subs right now.

I use a pair of Orion MB6s in each door for midbass....Xover set from 80 to 400hz running off an Orion 2150SX @ 300 per door.....they mesh well with the JL XR comps on another 2150SX.....:D

There are some poopyheads who think 450w per door is too much......what do they know?....:laugh:

FWIW, I never bothered trying to build enclosures for the 6's.....lotsa Dynamat on the doors seems to have sealed them well enough to get the midbass hitting well. It's a huge difference from just a 2 way component set up front.

HTH

i will be using 2x 300.1 RF puch for each door. and a 200.2 for the comp set. i just have to figure out how to make my midbass only run 50- 250/300ish

midbass will be in bottom of the door. and mid and tweet on far end of dash. and my dash is far lol check out a caravan when you have a chance you will see that i have a good distance to work with.:P

i was originally thinking of putting the mids and tweet in the kick but i have a dam foot break in the way of it. lol



i dont think that 750watts total rms power in front will kill me. i will love it for sure and sometimes enough power is never enough anyways
ohh and i WILL have lots and lots of dynamat in the doors. i will be putting dynaplate for the first layer and then dynamat extreme for a second. and it will be as sealed as it can be since i have power everything in the door. it will be hard to seal up where the rods for PW and door handle rods are ohh and lock rod

If your deck has 3 sets of outputs it's quite easy.....use the front outs for the comps in the dash, split the rear outs and HP them where you want the bottom end of your midbass to start. Feed that into the amp and use the LP filter on the amp to cap the top end of the pass band. The other half of the rear outs goes to the rear like usual.

My wife drives a 2000 Grand Caravan.....I put a set of Focal comps up front in that.....panels to hold the 6.5" in the doors and tweets attached to the 'A' pillars.....the windshields are freakin' huge tho, almost as bad as the Pontiac Transports.......:ohwell:

HTH

ya lol its big. my only issue is that.. yes my deck has 3 outs. but the front and rear runs on the same HPF. its set to 50hz. what i was thinking is to split my fronts and feed it to all 3 amps. the comp i can set the HPF on the amp up to 250hz and i could set the 2 others on LPF set to 250hz and my HPF on the deck would cut off anything lower.


does this sound right ?? lol

It will work, but I wouldn't recommend dividing the output voltage from one set of RCAs over 3 amps. Use all 3 of them and you will be able to leave the amp gains set much lower, which usually means less noise in the system. You might not be able to hear amp hum through your subs but you will in your comps if the gain is too high. It also gives you more control from the deck, which I like since I like to tweak things now and then......:smilie_da

ill do that then i guess i wont have a fader anymore lol. cause with no rear passengers i shut the rears off completely. hum ill shut off the amp on the deck if i dont want the rears lol.

BTW my deck is the clarion DRZ-575USB 6 volts preout. later on will go up to the eclipse.


OR should i just run the fronts to the 2002 and then from the out on the amp send the right and left to the to each amp??? like the left to the 3001 and the right to the second 3001??

You can do it that way......Hopefully the RF will pass thru the same voltage level to the pre-outs that were received at the inputs.....

If rear sound is an issue, do the split on the rear outs from the deck, one set goes to the 300.1's and the other pair goes to the amp driving the rear speakers. If you want to be able to kill the rears when nobody is back there to listen, splice a switch into the remote line for that amp and mount it up front where you can get at it.

the rears are powered by the deck. i am no longer investing in power for rears lol. killing the amp for the rears that i was saying means telling the deck to turn off the internal amp completely.

but while doing that i will be able to use all 3 preouts. Front for the components and rear for the midbass. then the sub out for the sub... this will work for me. lol

There ya go.....I have my van set up that way....it makes it much easier to fiddle with the levels while your in the driver's seat.....which can be a bad thing if you like to fiddle too much.....:cheeky4:

lol it is a bad thing and i am like that hahahhaha AND my amps are gonna be right in front too hahahaah

allways wanted to know this... the front and rear outs are all the same stereo sound right???

Yep....the only thing you can do is raise and lower relative levels between the 4 corners...it would sound pretty bad if they weren't in stereo......:eek: