OSDawg

So I've searched this forum for my answer and decided to ask you people for help on my problem. I'm new to car audio, so please bare with me.

I have 2 punch 10", pushed with a 520w amp. These items are in a '07 Chevy Silverado. Now, I noticed when I got the truck that the interior lights would dim when I hit the window switches, sometimes the hitting the brake would cause the same issue. When this is happening, the voltage meter on the dash, flucuates between 12 & 14 volts. Seems like a power issue. So when I hooked up my system, the amp loses power when the bass hits. Also putting a voltage meter on the amp shows it drop from 14v to 12v when the bass hits and sometimes even further. This worsens as I increase the volume to the point that the amp cuts out completely. My alternator pushes 145 amps. This seems to be plenty of amperage for the size amp & subs that I have. I had the same amp with 2 12" Bostwicks in a 2001, same model truck and never had problems.

What is the problem and what is the cheapest way to fix it? I've read a few things about the big 3. Please explain the big 3? I believe its something to do with wiring 'must'.

Thanks!

mik

iTrader: (1)

You will find out plenty about the big 3 if you search for it, but in short it is upgrading the engine/alt ground, battery ground, and power feed to the battery from the altnernator with larger gauge wire. Many use anything from 4gauge (thats all I used since I only have a 75amp alt and don't run a huge system, but it definitely helped with voltage drop/dimming) down to 0. For your application in particular, I suggest 2 or 0awg wiring.

In the case of grounds it is better to add rather than replace. Current will take the path of least resistence anyways.

Smoke_31

You could try the big 3, adding a capacitor, adding a better alternator, a low resistance battery.... There are many things. The cheapest, as mentioned above, would be to try the big 3 first.

belcom

iTrader: (2)

is your amp class D ? or A/B ?

I got a 120amp alt. basically I had one 10" hooked up to an A/B type amp feeding about 400wrms into the sub and the lights would dim like crazy. Then I switched to a class D monoblock and the issue was gone for good. Even though I didn't need the big 3 I still installed it because it doesn't hurt that's for sure.

zinger002

iTrader: (1)

so your saying a class d draws less?

belcom

iTrader: (2)

it is more efficient. I guess it means that it needs less to provide the same amount of output as AB. Therefore most likely it actually draws less current.

I didn't buy the monoblock to fix the problem though, I had my sub running off my 4ch bridged temporarily while waiting to find and purchase a class D monoblock. So this was my observation.

mayhem

iTrader: (1)

huh? class d`s are more efficent DRIVING subs than a AB because they provide much more power, therefore as a result depending on you sub/amp combo will have a far greater current draw that a 2 or 4channel amp. buying a mono block will not fix this problem.

belcom

iTrader: (2)

Here's the thing... when I got the class D monoblock I added it to the system and hooked up new speakers all around to the 4ch. So the draw increased at least twice. But once the sub was on the mono the lights don't flicker no matter how loud I crank it.

zinger002

iTrader: (1)

that really dosent make sense though lol...maby the draw is so bad you just cant tell because the lights are so dim lol...

belcom

iTrader: (2)

both dash and cabin lights are the same as when I had no system (nice and bright that is). I still get the dimming when I operate the window regulators but that was there before also.