Rockford set up...
#4
most 1/0 OFC cable will do about 250 amps maximum.
now secondly why on earth would your amplifier be drawing 200amps of current to blow the fuse? I BELIEVE the rockford 1500.1 draws a maximum current of 150amps at FULL capacity..
thirdly what else are you running besides that amp for drawing current from your battery? Theres something else causing the fuse to go besides the amp its self
#5
first off i HIGHLY doubt your getting 200amps worth of current through your 4ga wire.. as most are typically rated for a maximum 150amps of current with OFC
most 1/0 OFC cable will do about 250 amps maximum.
now secondly why on earth would your amplifier be drawing 200amps of current to blow the fuse? I BELIEVE the rockford 1500.1 draws a maximum current of 150amps at FULL capacity..
thirdly what else are you running besides that amp for drawing current from your battery? Theres something else causing the fuse to go besides the amp its self
most 1/0 OFC cable will do about 250 amps maximum.
now secondly why on earth would your amplifier be drawing 200amps of current to blow the fuse? I BELIEVE the rockford 1500.1 draws a maximum current of 150amps at FULL capacity..
thirdly what else are you running besides that amp for drawing current from your battery? Theres something else causing the fuse to go besides the amp its self
#6
The amp has a pair of speaker terminals, denoted by the usual "A" and "B". These terminals are connected in parallel internally on the amp. You've stated you are using "both channels" and that the subs are 2 ohms, each.
You CAN NOT wire a single 2ohm DVC subwoofer for a 2 ohm load, it'll either be 1 ohm or 4 ohm. I'm wondering if you've wired each sub for 1 ohm, and by connecting each one to it's own terminal on the amp, you've dropped the load down to .5 ohm.
Owner's Manual for the T1500.1 BD Power Series Amplifier <<< LINK.
The manual does state that the recommended rating for the power wire fuse is, in fact, 200A. And that's after they've recommended a 4 gauge power wire...
Are these the subs you have? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=112877 <<< LINK.
If you have a pair of 2ohm Dual Voice Coil subwoofers your wiring options will yield either a .5, 2, or 8 ohm final load for the amp. I would assume that yours are wired for a 2 ohm load. So you should be sharing 1000W between those two subs.
Now for some math. (Please note that the manual states that the amp will create 1000W at 2 ohm, with a 14.4A current.
Let's assume that your amp is 80% efficient.
1000W divided by 80% = 1250W
1250W divided by vehicle's current (12V) = 104.16A
At 90% efficient and 14V you'd get...
1000W divided by 90% = 1111W
1111W divided by 14V = 79.35A
If those assumptions (80% efficiency, and 12V current supply) are correct, then your amp could draw up to 104A. Chances are the class BD amp topology is better than 80% efficient and your charging system's current is more than 12V. So you'd be drawing less than 104A. The 200A fuse should not be blowing if things are hooked up correctly. In all reality a 100A fuse is probably sufficient for the draw the amp is creating.
You CAN NOT wire a single 2ohm DVC subwoofer for a 2 ohm load, it'll either be 1 ohm or 4 ohm. I'm wondering if you've wired each sub for 1 ohm, and by connecting each one to it's own terminal on the amp, you've dropped the load down to .5 ohm.
Owner's Manual for the T1500.1 BD Power Series Amplifier <<< LINK.
The manual does state that the recommended rating for the power wire fuse is, in fact, 200A. And that's after they've recommended a 4 gauge power wire...
Are these the subs you have? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=112877 <<< LINK.
If you have a pair of 2ohm Dual Voice Coil subwoofers your wiring options will yield either a .5, 2, or 8 ohm final load for the amp. I would assume that yours are wired for a 2 ohm load. So you should be sharing 1000W between those two subs.
Now for some math. (Please note that the manual states that the amp will create 1000W at 2 ohm, with a 14.4A current.
Let's assume that your amp is 80% efficient.
1000W divided by 80% = 1250W
1250W divided by vehicle's current (12V) = 104.16A
At 90% efficient and 14V you'd get...
1000W divided by 90% = 1111W
1111W divided by 14V = 79.35A
If those assumptions (80% efficiency, and 12V current supply) are correct, then your amp could draw up to 104A. Chances are the class BD amp topology is better than 80% efficient and your charging system's current is more than 12V. So you'd be drawing less than 104A. The 200A fuse should not be blowing if things are hooked up correctly. In all reality a 100A fuse is probably sufficient for the draw the amp is creating.
#10
I don't know what amps usually do when they are connected in a way that the resistance is lower than they're capable of handling. I would assume that it'd either go into protect mode, or blow the fuse(s) on the amp itself. Yours is doing neither. It's trying to draw more current than the 200A fuse can pass. That's why I'm thinking that the subs are at too low of a resistance (.5) and the amp is trying to draw significantly more power.