2 8's AKA Jeepbeats

iTrader: (19)

^^ Great thanks! There are .25" between the pins, and each pin is about 1/16" wide, if that helps.

Link to pics: http://photobucket.com/albums/a338/r...?sc=1&multi=17

[ January 26, 2006, 11:24 PM: Message edited by: 2 8's AKA Jeepbeats ]

theboy

I have a manual at home I will copy and e-mail it to you on monday...and if you want to sell that thing let me know!

theboy

Yes they were....great amps.

2 8's AKA Jeepbeats

iTrader: (19)

Great thanks, I actually have the manual for this one also. As far as selling it goes, you will have to arm-wrestle Defro13 for that, he asked me about it first..... LOL

[ January 27, 2006, 09:23 AM: Message edited by: 2 8's AKA Jeepbeats ]

Cutra

iTrader: (3)

I'll buy it.
In any even looks like it could be very similar to the old hifonics amps.
the middle cable could be the trigger and the top ones would be the positives and obviously the ones on the left would be the left speakers and you can guess the rest.
Let me know if that is what the manual that "The Boy" sends you. It would be interesting to know the actuals on this amp.
P.S. where did you get if from and for how much.
I loved those amps yet I never had an opportunity to buy one.

Cartel

I have the RA2150 and am doing a recap.

should I do anything to "update" it.

I plan on doing all the caps, I have no schematic.


Taking the lead spacing and height limit of the big caps, here's what I plan on getting to replace these:


Small
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...mSeq=272560921
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...mSeq=272560959
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...mSeq=272560968
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...mSeq=272561108

Big
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...1923-ND/589664
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...1840-ND/589581

Should I just stick with factory values on the big caps?


Also the thermal insulation seems to be paper....not sure what to do there either.

thanks

Cartel

There is another forum that says the wiring is red left + ...... thats wrong.

Red and White are both NEGATIVE
BROWN IS RIGHT SIDE POSITIVE
GREEN IS LEFT SIDE POSITIVE.

I verified this, both red and white go to the same solder pad and they both are 0 ohms to the "rca in" ground.

Cartel

Almost done recapping and touching up some iffy solder joints.
Had to take a break.

1 of the 4 caps on the 12 volt power input was not connected to anything.
The solder pad was isolated. Not sure what was up there so I soldered a strip of copper to it and the ground where the other 3 are conncted.
No use having a $3 capacitor in there doing nothing.

Cartel

OK well the caps are done.
I'm gonna buy some new power wires and then put this thing back together.
Hopefully tomorrow it will be done.

Someone jumpered the rca in, the traces looked lifted, maybe a factory fix?
I also changed the ceramic in the 12V cause I've seen them go south lately and get hot.

Cartel

OK well looks like car amps or at least this car amp has reversed phases and on the left channel.
Its Positive on the negative apparently. -42V

My apologies the other site has it correct.

WHITE IS RIGHT NEGATIVE
BROWN IS RIGHT SIDE POSITIVE
RED IS LEFT SIDE POSITIVE.
GREEN IS LEFT NEGATIVE


The amp is back running fine.
Hopefully this info helps someone in the future.

This amp fought me the whole way, I thought it had to be slid together, tore the thermal pads, got the wrong thermal pads, the wiring code.
A real pain in the ***.
I reflowed the pins on the mosfets and rectifiers.

I put some krazyglue on the caps and nuts (torqued lightly to yeild with a hand driver)

But its back in and works great driving 2 punch 12's from 1997