Shead Some Light For Me. Alpine/JL Audio
11-08-2008, 11:40 AM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 21
Shead Some Light For Me. Alpine/JL Audio
I have been reading and reading and have read alot about both of these amps but I am still looking for comfirmation on which one may be better for my situation. I have a 2008 GMC serria crew cab without the bose system.
Factory Tweeters
4 Alpine 6 1/5 typer R's 100Wrms
Adding JL 10W6
For the sub I will be using a Subthump dual 10 sealed box but only running one sub, the box is divided into two parts and each one has 0.83 cu/ft of air space. Will this be OK and will the 10W6 work well in this box?
If I run the JL it is my understanding that I can only power the fronts with the AMP and bridge the rear channel for the sub. The Tweeters and rears will still run off on the factory setup. Will this still be an underpowered situation?
If I run the Alpine I have 4 channels at 75W for the door speakers and the tweeters can be run off the factory set up. Also I will have a 350W channel for the sub. From what I have been reading all the PDX line is underrated on paper as well.
Now I will not be doign the install I have oppted out of the idea but doesn't the dedicated channels for each speaker and sub seem to be the best idea?
I am kinda confused but if it looks like a dog and sounds like a dog and smells like a dog......hell it is a dog? Some unbias input from people who are not trying to sell me stuff would be great.
Thanks
Phil
Factory Tweeters
4 Alpine 6 1/5 typer R's 100Wrms
Adding JL 10W6
For the sub I will be using a Subthump dual 10 sealed box but only running one sub, the box is divided into two parts and each one has 0.83 cu/ft of air space. Will this be OK and will the 10W6 work well in this box?
If I run the JL it is my understanding that I can only power the fronts with the AMP and bridge the rear channel for the sub. The Tweeters and rears will still run off on the factory setup. Will this still be an underpowered situation?
If I run the Alpine I have 4 channels at 75W for the door speakers and the tweeters can be run off the factory set up. Also I will have a 350W channel for the sub. From what I have been reading all the PDX line is underrated on paper as well.
Now I will not be doign the install I have oppted out of the idea but doesn't the dedicated channels for each speaker and sub seem to be the best idea?
I am kinda confused but if it looks like a dog and sounds like a dog and smells like a dog......hell it is a dog? Some unbias input from people who are not trying to sell me stuff would be great.
Thanks
Phil
11-08-2008, 04:10 PM
#2
Dedicated channels for each speaker is indeed the best idea. You can underpower a speaker all day long if you like, the speaker performs just fine when you have the volume at a comfortable level. If you want it loud, then go for a bigger amplifier. Powering the rear speakers off of the head unit can indeed be done but it is a really poor match of output from the front to the rear. The other side to this story is that some people do not like or want rear speakers or have been told they should not have them so it does not matter. Personal preference here but I like rear speakers and I would have a amp on them. The pro's vs. the cons will win in this situation.
A sealed box is a very forgiving box when it comes to a sub. You generally get good results out of them but do not get stunning results in most cases. This means if you are going into this knowing that you want a crapload of bass, the prefab box and sub chosen (unless you already have it) might not be the best choice. If you have the sub, get the box custom fabricated. For gods sake get a proper interface in the vehicle if you are going to maintain the factory headunit.
A sealed box is a very forgiving box when it comes to a sub. You generally get good results out of them but do not get stunning results in most cases. This means if you are going into this knowing that you want a crapload of bass, the prefab box and sub chosen (unless you already have it) might not be the best choice. If you have the sub, get the box custom fabricated. For gods sake get a proper interface in the vehicle if you are going to maintain the factory headunit.
11-08-2008, 04:42 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 21
Thanks MR2NR
I too like the idea of having rear speakers for a fuller sound space. As for the sub I am not looking for a crap load of bass just a comfortable amount that will complement the speakers not over power them. I am too old to be the guy that shakes the car infront of him LOL. As for the head unit I am keeping the stock one just for the astechitcs of it all but have been flirting with the idea of changing it out but not right away. If I am correct I think the proper interface is the Pac Audio AOEM GMC 1416 for my truck that will allow you to add an amp and keep all factory chimes and controls.
Thanks
Phil
I too like the idea of having rear speakers for a fuller sound space. As for the sub I am not looking for a crap load of bass just a comfortable amount that will complement the speakers not over power them. I am too old to be the guy that shakes the car infront of him LOL. As for the head unit I am keeping the stock one just for the astechitcs of it all but have been flirting with the idea of changing it out but not right away. If I am correct I think the proper interface is the Pac Audio AOEM GMC 1416 for my truck that will allow you to add an amp and keep all factory chimes and controls.
Thanks
Phil
11-08-2008, 04:49 PM
#4
I kow your original response was to not try and sell you something, however, would a recommendation be out of line? You are at a planning stage right now, it is always a good idea to know of other options that may have better long term results for you.
The interface is the lifeblood of the new system. Instead of the PAC unit, consider the Audio Control LC6i or LC7i + bass remote. They are line drivers, AUX input for ipod on the LC7i, high power advanced LOC's and allow independent signal level controls for the front rear and subwoofer outputs. Adding the bass remote adds the ability to control the level of the sub independent from all the other speakers in the system. This one item will take you far further than the PAC unit. Should you do this, the need to replace the factory head unit is pretty much gone.
Consider also the MTX Thunderform for your truck. It is stealth and offer exactly what you need. I drive a crewcab as well and am long past the days of loud music, after 20 years in the business, the sound of silence is kind of nice.
The interface is the lifeblood of the new system. Instead of the PAC unit, consider the Audio Control LC6i or LC7i + bass remote. They are line drivers, AUX input for ipod on the LC7i, high power advanced LOC's and allow independent signal level controls for the front rear and subwoofer outputs. Adding the bass remote adds the ability to control the level of the sub independent from all the other speakers in the system. This one item will take you far further than the PAC unit. Should you do this, the need to replace the factory head unit is pretty much gone.
Consider also the MTX Thunderform for your truck. It is stealth and offer exactly what you need. I drive a crewcab as well and am long past the days of loud music, after 20 years in the business, the sound of silence is kind of nice.
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