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Old 12-03-2009, 02:23 PM
  #11  
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Hey, I noticed Gibby's links . . . are you in the Niagara Region? I could help you out if you need a hand, Gibby's is 20 min away for me . . . I do find Gibby's a bit on the expensive side, and there are other shops in the area, but I'm glad to see you walking away from the Bazooka stuff.

It's too bad I sold my stuff too quickly. About 2 months ago I sold my MTX 710 with a box and an Insignia 600 WRMS amp (not a great quality amp, but it performed well and this would have been a great starter combo for you).

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Old 12-03-2009, 02:28 PM
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Hey buddy, nice to meet you.
I'm in the GTA but gibby's is actually the cheapest place near me and they offer free shipping.
They have a 10" JL 500watt rms 2 ohms for $250.. if I get a alpine M500 which does 500watt rms at 2ohms and If attempt to make my own box and salvage a amp kit then it should cost me around $500 after taxes.

Hows that idea.. or you know of any better solutions? I think the 1 JL in a sealed box should be good enough for my little civic.
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:31 PM
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Since you guys said a 300watt rms JL sub won't be hardly noticed in my civic's trunk..
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:52 PM
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I think it all depends on what you are looking for.
I had an 8" eD 9Kv.2 ported in my trunk getting 250WRMS . . . it wasn't loud, but it gave a really nice bottom end.
After that, I had that combo I mentioned above. The jump to 600WRMS was definitely noticeable, but the increase in rattles wasn't pleasant either . . . at that point I needed to sound deaden everything . . . so I just downsized again back to my 250wrms amp. It gives very nice clean bass without shaking the crap out of my car.

'97 Tercel is a bit old. With 600WRMS to a single ported 10" everything was rattling - my front bumper, headlights, tail lights, rear deck, trunk, even my exhaust system was starting to shake like crazy. I think you will be satisfied with 300wrms and a single 10". If you are using your head unit to power your front speakers, you will notice a significant improvement with 300wrms. Personally, I think a 100WRMS amp would work with speakers run off a head unit to give a balanced sound (by balanced I mean similar to old school home stereo tower speakers running without a sub - the bass is there - and deep, but not shake the pictures off the walls powerful)

Find some people in your area and ask if you can listen to their car.
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:55 PM
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Another line of subs that work really well in small boxes are Elemental Designs. The 8" sub I mentioned in my previous post is an Elemental Designs sub and it can work in an enclosure as small as .3 cubes sealed or .6 cubes ported.

eD makes good subs, for a cheap price.
Hit up Portimex on the board. He is a Canadian Distributor. eD is in the process of changing their line up, so you might be able to pick up some of old stock for a greatly reduced priced.

Elemental Designs

I've played with a fair bit of common gear (MTX, Rockford, Pioneer) and I feel that eD offers better bang for the buck . . . but I can't really comment on JL, as I haven't used any of it myself.

Last edited by maltesechicken; 12-03-2009 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:01 PM
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300w rms is more than ample power to deliver bass response that is not overwhelming. In the days before readily available big power (and the days before most of the kids on the site were even born) all we had were 2 channel amps that really topped out at 400w rms and it was still ample back then. It all depends on your budget and goals. If you want a small box to save on room, a shallow mount sub and a 2 channel amp bridged mono will suffice. Build the box yourself or have Jalat build one for you. If you have a little more room, a larger sub that can handle a little more power, with a slightly larger amp and a ported box will deliver more results to you. That said though, go too big and expect there to be a total imbalance of power between the bass response and the rest of the speakers. All you will hear is bass and the rest of the system will struggle to keep up. Rattles to the vehicle as mentioned above are the next thing to consider. So keep things in check and know what it is you really want to do.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:07 PM
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hey maltese too bad you didnt have that dual 4 ohm pioneer sub.that thing with my alpine mrp-m450 would have been a sweet little setup for dirt cheap.
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:10 PM
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I have the dual 4 ohm sub from Pioneer Premiere....
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:10 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys.
Especially maltesechicken.

But I think I'ma buy timmay2tokes's 400watt rms 2ohm sub and just get the JL 10-3v3-2ohm sub that's 500watt rms.. I hate to under power the sub but just seems like a good deal for the buck.

Hopefully making a box isn't going to cost a fortune neither is the damn wires.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sirux
Since you guys said a 300watt rms JL sub won't be hardly noticed in my civic's trunk..
I had 2x 10" 150wrms Kenwood subs in 1cu' each sealed in the trunk of a
Cavalier with a 383wrms(as per birthsheet) RF amp. Seat up and an amp rack in the way it would shake the hell out of the car. If you don't plan on competing with it what you have there should be more than enough to put a little rattle in the mirrors. LOL I have been looking for an excuse to get down to the Peninsula so if you want a hand putting a box together let me know. I need to bring an amp for Maltesechicken so we could all meet up and get some bump in your trunk for you.
Nick
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