2 8's AKA Jeepbeats

iTrader: (19)

Take a meter, put the black lead to your ground in the back, and run the other lead to the ground at your battery and check the resistance. The wire that you use to reach the front of the car will have to be factored in, as far as the resistance of it goes, but this should give you an idea on how decent your ground is. I believe it should read .4 ohms or less, someone correct me if I am wrong here.

Westec

iTrader: (1)

You might have cd tracking noise, it sounds like a tick every second or so, but does NOT change with the rpm...if this is true reply.

islandphile

.1 ohms or less should be totally achievable....otherwise there is a ground problem.

First thing I would try is another deck in the same vehicle you have the system in right now, using the same wires. If the problem goes away its the deck. Sometimes when you are monkeying around with live power wires the barrel of an rca cord touches (or even just brushes) a positive wire (or power terminal on the amp)somewhere by accident and the DC current goes up the RCA wire right into the deck where it fries the ground traces in your deck...this problem will cause the symptoms you are describing.

How do you find out if it's the ground traces (after you try and sub in another deck first, right?)? You'll have to pop open the deck and trace back the rca wires from where they leave the deck to traces on the circuit board. Follow the traces corresponding to the outside (negative) barrel of the RCA, NOT the centre pin. If you see any bubbling in the traces this is your problem. You'll then have to get a very small drill bit and solder a jumper wire to bypass the "bubbled" part by drilling a small hole in to a solid portion of the trace at both ends and then insert the jumper through the hole and dab with a small tip soldering iron.

If the problem occurs with the replacement deck also, try grounding the negative or the barrel portion of the rca's to the deck again with a small jumper. No need to pop open the deck, just ground the negative side of the RCA to the chassis of the deck to eliminate any potential ground loop that could be causing the problem.

152.5

iTrader: (1)

Hey westec its a constant noise and is affected by engine speed so i dont think it can be cd tracking noise, but keep the ideas coming. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

152.5

iTrader: (1)

Thanks islandphile, Ill try to have a look at it but i did all my wiring with the fuse out of the power wire. I just dont understand why the deck works perfect with no noise at all when i just run rcas the rcas out of the truck into the other car. The amps in the truck work fine when played by the deck from the other car. They just cant be used in conjuction with each other.
Keep the help coming

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Moe Sab

It sounds like what you're trying to describe is an "ignition interference" noise; a "ticking" sound that varies in speed with engine rpm.

Your alternator guy was close... check the spark plug wires to see if they are old, cracked, or the insulator is burnt/ melted in any spots from sitting against an exhaust manifold. If they are, the resistance quality of the spark plug wires has been compromised and could lead to that type of noise; replacing them with a new set of spark plug wires may solve the problem.

Another area to check is around the ignition circuitry of the vehicle. If either the power cables or the RCA's are running near an ignition source that is compromised (eg: wire with a cracked insulator or that has been tapped into for any reason), you could be picking the noise up from there.

I hope this helps...

NOBASS

It has all the symptoms of a ground loop. When you are connected to the second vehicle (in your test setup), each component (deck in one vehicle and amp in the other) has its own "power supply" and the grounds are effectively isolated. It is like running the deck in the truck from a separate isolated battery which does not have its negative terminal attached to the car. It is when the two components are running from the same power supply and the same ground plane that the problems arise.

Is it possible to isolate the chassis of the deck from the vehicle's metal? I had a similar problem years ago when my HU was creating a ground loop through the backstrap. I inserted a rubber grommet in the backstrap, then ran the screw through that and into the deck (to isolate the chassis metal from the metal strap) and it worked great. Try pulling the deck out of the dash and rest it on the seat or hold it in the air, connecting power ONLY through the wires.

Also isolate the amp from the vehicle's metal (if it is touching anywhere). The only places the deck and the amp sound be actually "touching" the grounded metal of the car are through the ground power wires (one connection each).

I'm with Islandphile on the potential deck problem - try swapping the deck and even the amp if you have a spare.

Hope that helps...
Mk

[ June 29, 2004, 08:03 AM: Message edited by: NOBASS ]

152.5

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, with the deck out of the dash and in my hands the noise is still prominent. But only when used in conjunction with the amps in the truck. If rcas are led to the car next to us the deck works flawlessly.
There seems to be something that is happening when the deck and amps are used together.
Keep the help coming moe,no bass and defro.

[ June 29, 2004, 08:24 AM: Message edited by: 152.5 ]

152.5

iTrader: (1)

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