SQ Woofer & Amp Advice Needed.
Hi,
I'm putting together an SQ system for my '97 Honda Prelude and I need advice on clean, tight woofers that also offer great deep bass, thoughts on sizes, number of speakers, enclosures and a great amp to push them. This will be a custom installation at a shop but I'm unsure at this point if I want to just buy a box and throw it in there or have a fiberglass enclosure made to house the woofers. I'm leaning toward a fiberglass enclosure just to maximize space because its a small trunk and I also need to fit 2 amps in there and possibly a second battery, capacitor, etc, if needed. The HU is a Kenwood KDC-MP445U with front, rear and sub outs. I'm running two sets of Polk Audio SR5250's, one set in the doors or kickpanels, and one set in the rear deck. Those components will be running off an Arc Audio 4-channel amp. I've been looking at JL Audio subs but I'm a noob to all this and I don't know what might sound good, what I need and don't need, etc. I listen mostly to metal, rock, industrial and electronic music. So I want super tight kicks and accurate bass for the metal and rock music which likely means a sealed enclosure, but I also would like the option of deep bass for the electronic and industrial music. Can I have both? Do I want dual 10 inch or 12 inch woofers? Or perhaps one 15 inch mounted in the spare tire well and two 10's pointed into the car? How about just one 12 inch? I know that I don't want the bass overpowering the mids and highs. I want a really beautiful, theatrical that maximizes the sound of the music, but also cranks with zero distortion if possible. What are some clean sounding amps that maximize their wattage but run cool? If I'm running dual 10's or 12's that are rated at 500W rms @ 2 ohms what kind of wattage should the amp be? 1000W rms monoblock? I know much of this comes down to personal taste but just lay on me your experiences, thoughts and advice because researching and reading reviews only gets you so far. :) I'd like to hear from people who actually build their own systems and have years of experience. Thank you for listening. :) -Ryan |
JL W7, greatest woofer on the market.
what amp are you planning on running? or what sub? you seem to be looking for numbers before you pick the equipment. I'd suggest picking an amp or a sub first, then find the other piece to match, makes things way easier. |
Originally Posted by fresh1
(Post 619041)
JL W7, greatest woofer on the market.
I thought that was the Critical Mass UL ? ... although they make the overpriced W7 stuff seem like a deal. |
This is what I have in mind for the trunk space. Let me know if these subs and amp match up well and if you would do anything differently (ex. DVC's, different ohm rating, etc). For right now I'm going solely on the great customer reviews I've read:
1x JL Audio Slash v2 500/1v2 Slash v2 Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan. MOSFET power supply Remote bass level input (remote level control sold separately) LED power indicators Tuned Bass EQ (0-15 dB bass boost) High-Damping Class D Circuit with discrete control circuitry Differential-balanced with RCA jack inputs H-Bridge amplifier topology Pulse width modulation-regulated switching power supply Mono operation Output Polarity Reversal Switch permits instant output polarity reversal Preamp RCA outputs Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave) Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 15 Hz) Frequency response: 5-250 Hz Dimensions: 13.40"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H 2x JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" Single 4 Ohm W3v3 Series Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak: 600 watts RMS: 300 watts Impedance: Single 4 Ohm Mineral-filled polypropylene cone woofer Nitrile-butadiene rubber surround DMA-optimized, long linear excursion capability to virtually eliminate distortion and increase sound output Vented reinforcement collar improves rigidity and stability of the cone, spider, and voice coil Spider and lead wire assembly Elevated frame cooling enhances power and sound quality Floating Cone Attach Method allow the cone and surround to be aligned independently Sensitivity: 86 dB Thanks!! -Ryan |
Originally Posted by SocialMisfit
(Post 619034)
Hi,
I'm putting together an SQ system for my '97 Honda Prelude and I need advice on clean, tight woofers that also offer great deep bass, thoughts on sizes, number of speakers, enclosures and a great amp to push them. This will be a custom installation at a shop but I'm unsure at this point if I want to just buy a box and throw it in there or have a fiberglass enclosure made to house the woofers. I'm leaning toward a fiberglass enclosure just to maximize space because its a small trunk and I also need to fit 2 amps in there and possibly a second battery, capacitor, etc, if needed. The HU is a Kenwood KDC-MP445U with front, rear and sub outs. I'm running two sets of Polk Audio SR5250's, one set in the doors or kickpanels, and one set in the rear deck. Those components will be running off an Arc Audio 4-channel amp. I've been looking at JL Audio subs but I'm a noob to all this and I don't know what might sound good, what I need and don't need, etc. I listen mostly to metal, rock, industrial and electronic music. So I want super tight kicks and accurate bass for the metal and rock music which likely means a sealed enclosure, but I also would like the option of deep bass for the electronic and industrial music. Can I have both? Do I want dual 10 inch or 12 inch woofers? Or perhaps one 15 inch mounted in the spare tire well and two 10's pointed into the car? How about just one 12 inch? I know that I don't want the bass overpowering the mids and highs. I want a really beautiful, theatrical that maximizes the sound of the music, but also cranks with zero distortion if possible. What are some clean sounding amps that maximize their wattage but run cool? If I'm running dual 10's or 12's that are rated at 500W rms @ 2 ohms what kind of wattage should the amp be? 1000W rms monoblock? I know much of this comes down to personal taste but just lay on me your experiences, thoughts and advice because researching and reading reviews only gets you so far. :) I'd like to hear from people who actually build their own systems and have years of experience. Thank you for listening. :) -Ryan |
Originally Posted by SocialMisfit
(Post 619235)
This is what I have in mind for the trunk space. Let me know if these subs and amp match up well and if you would do anything differently (ex. DVC's, different ohm rating, etc). For right now I'm going solely on the great customer reviews I've read:
1x JL Audio Slash v2 500/1v2 Slash v2 Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan. MOSFET power supply Remote bass level input (remote level control sold separately) LED power indicators Tuned Bass EQ (0-15 dB bass boost) High-Damping Class D Circuit with discrete control circuitry Differential-balanced with RCA jack inputs H-Bridge amplifier topology Pulse width modulation-regulated switching power supply Mono operation Output Polarity Reversal Switch permits instant output polarity reversal Preamp RCA outputs Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave) Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 15 Hz) Frequency response: 5-250 Hz Dimensions: 13.40"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H 2x JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" Single 4 Ohm W3v3 Series Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak: 600 watts RMS: 300 watts Impedance: Single 4 Ohm Mineral-filled polypropylene cone woofer Nitrile-butadiene rubber surround DMA-optimized, long linear excursion capability to virtually eliminate distortion and increase sound output Vented reinforcement collar improves rigidity and stability of the cone, spider, and voice coil Spider and lead wire assembly Elevated frame cooling enhances power and sound quality Floating Cone Attach Method allow the cone and surround to be aligned independently Sensitivity: 86 dB Thanks!! -Ryan |
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