Sub enclosure dimensions
 

Hey guys, I was just wondering if anyone could help me out here..I've got 4 10" Oz Audio subs not sure the Model but they are about 150 watts each doesn anyone know what the dimensions would be for a enclosure for these?

No model printed on the back of the subs? wierd.....

:dunno: Kind of hard to help with no info, lol

Well its going into a 98 civic..theres no model on the back of the sub, I dunno.. what else do you need to know?

Without the T/S specs for the subs it is a guessing game to try and design a ported enclosure for any speaker.

1cuft each sealed will get them working......easy box to build and you can't go wrong playing 28hz test tones thru them if you feel like rattling your eyeballs out of their sockets.....:D

HTH

So have 4 individual 1cuft boxes in my trunk? I was looking for something a tad better looking lol

That is a starting point for the air volume required for each driver.....you can design the enclosure to look whatever way you like......:eyes:

Oz made a couple of models of 10s so, as suggested, it is impossible to tell for sure what size enclosure you need since you can't tell us what driver you have. The suggestion of 4cuft sealed is probably a safe bet.

You didn't tell us what car you have either so how is someone supposed to suggest enclosure dimensions? :dunno:

Its going into a 4dr 98 civic the only thing written on the sub is rr1004 and thats on the outter lip of the sub.

I got these dimensions after doing some research..they are supposed to equal 4 cuft, can anyone confirm this for me? 12.0 in. × 19.0 in. × 31.0 in

Measure your trunk or hatch, and decide how much space you want to give up, then let us know what the maximum dimensions are, height, width, depth. For a ported box we need thiel/small parameters such as; fs, vas, qts, etc... If you don't have those and can't find out what model the subs are, then I suggest you go with a sealed box as mentioned...most 10's can work quite well in boxes ranging from .7-1.2 cubic feet each. Unfortunately you don't know the model or specs, so it's a guess, though sealed systems are much more forgiving if the box is too big or a little small. 1 cube will work well, and in the unlikely event that it should be smaller or larger, the box can be adjusted by either placing foam blocks inside to take away volume or by adding polyester fibrefill to virtually increase volume. The box can be either all individual, one large common volume, or one large box divided internally into 4 segments (my preference as the drivers can operate properly should one or more stop working). There's your start, now go measure.

max dimenstions would be 2ft 8'' wide 2ft deep and 1ft 4'' height.

alright, so you have the volume, approx 7 cubic feet, but the dimensions make it tricky. Obviously you can't do 4 across the front or rear in a standard rectangular style box, so you can either do 2 in the front, 2 in the back, 2 on top, or one on either side in a box that is approx 4 cubic feet net internally. Here's an example: a box that is 28" wide x 16" high x 22" deep will yield approx 4.1 cubic feet net internal using 3/4" mdf after woofer and dividers/braces displacement (assumed .050 cubic ft per sub, and 3/4" dividers to split box into 4 equal volumes. This would allow you to place 2 in the front, and 1 on either side which will fire into the sides of the trunk with about an inch to spare for cone travel ( I preferred this set up as the 2 in the rear may create cancellation problems...truth is that this set up is not optimal, but will work as I've done it in the past with good results...the best is to have all drivers on the same side facing the same direction, but this works very well and the difference is hard to notice given the output potential of 4 subs. the box will be very strong with the double cross bracing and with full power will get plenty loud.

Stagger them across the front, 1 high 1 low 1 high 1 low.

^^won't fit...that's 42" in a 32 inch space with not enough height to do that...I've already looked at that, and did a scale drawing to confirm.

Would you happen to have a scale drawing of what you recommended in your last post?

Not on computer. Easy to do, just grab a piece of paper, a ruler and draw a rectangle using 1 cm to represent 1 inch...so 16"= 16 cm in your scale drawing, 28"= 28 cm, etc... Then get a compass or a circular object about 10 cm in diameter (your sub's diameter) and try to make 4 of them fit in the rectangle.

Have you ever had the chance to try firing 2 back and 2 up in this type of scenario? Just wondering if the cancellation possibilities would be minimized doing it that way.....:dunno:

I would think in a trunk it would direct more pressure up through the back deck......

Thanks guys for all your help..much appreciated!

here is a diagram of the box:
net internal is 4.07 cubic feet using .75 mdf, as Big Red mentioned, the rear subs could be mounted on top, but you would have to re-configure the dimensions to allow for a shorter box height, and increase width and/or depth to maintain the 1cube/driver set up...again based on general info.

Red, I've used that style (2 front, 2 up)in hatch backs with great results, but found in trunks that the high energy of the subs right below the rear deck caused a lot of rattling. It still produced a lot of bass, so depending on the vehicle and the sound deadening used, no reason why it wouldn't work well.

Yeah, I was wondering about the rattle factor myself.....I have a buddy with a 2000 Buick Lesabre who wants to put 4 12s in the trunk.....I might just try and talk him down to 2 ported instead.....:dunno:

Thx