Need Help With Set up
#2
#3
Is it a dvc 4 ohm sub? If so wire it to 2 ohms. That amp will put out 600 at 2 ohms you wont be meeting the rated 750 for the sub but I dont think it will hurt it. I dont have experience with the L7 but It would probably like over 750 rms.
you can find subwoofer diagrams at crutchfield im sure there are other sites as well. Just google subwoofer wiring diagrams.
#4
Is it a dvc 4 ohm sub? If so wire it to 2 ohms. That amp will put out 600 at 2 ohms you wont be meeting the rated 750 for the sub but I dont think it will hurt it. I dont have experience with the L7 but It would probably like over 750 rms.
you can find subwoofer diagrams at crutchfield im sure there are other sites as well. Just google subwoofer wiring diagrams.
you can find subwoofer diagrams at crutchfield im sure there are other sites as well. Just google subwoofer wiring diagrams.
#5
600 watts is usually enough for daily driving. You shouldn't have to do much to the rest of the system. Of coarse im assuming your using the stock system on the car. I think the sub is fine I was leaning more toward a better amp. That sub can handle 750 rms. Then max is 1500. So in my experience when I match subs and amps I get an amp capable of doing more then rms. Id put a 900 watt amp on that sub. Better to have to much power and adjust the gain down then not enough and run into clipping. But I think you should try it first. Like I said I don't think it will hurt anything. That's a quality brand amp I assume it does more then rated. It would be a good idea to see someone with a scope and meters to set your gain on the amp. You can watch a sine wave that way and see when the amp starts clipping. Proper adjustments are important for equipment. Both for longevity and proper sound quality
#6
600 watts is usually enough for daily driving. You shouldn't have to do much to the rest of the system. Of coarse im assuming your using the stock system on the car. I think the sub is fine I was leaning more toward a better amp. That sub can handle 750 rms. Then max is 1500. So in my experience when I match subs and amps I get an amp capable of doing more then rms. Id put a 900 watt amp on that sub. Better to have to much power and adjust the gain down then not enough and run into clipping. But I think you should try it first. Like I said I don't think it will hurt anything. That's a quality brand amp I assume it does more then rated. It would be a good idea to see someone with a scope and meters to set your gain on the amp. You can watch a sine wave that way and see when the amp starts clipping. Proper adjustments are important for equipment. Both for longevity and proper sound quality
#7
took you advice and I got a hifonics zrx 1500.1D. I have a Kenwood single din head unit I want to put in. So it would be Kenwood head unit, hifonics amp, epicenter, and the 12" kicker L7. I also don't know if I should add a capacitor.. also how should I wire it to this amp and what gauge power wiring? Appreciate the response brother!!
That amp is rated at 1000 at 2 ohm. So wire for that. Hifonics is a brand alot of people use. It should be a pretty good budget amp. If you decide you dont like it another brand is audiopipe. Budget amps are mostly for daily drivers. They call em budget cause they are cheap power. Most of the stuff out there works good now a days. Personally I try and look for amps that have been dyno tested are cea compliant and have the right fusing for what they claim. Pretty easy to tell if an amp claims 1500 watts rms but has a 30 or even two 30 amp fuses its not going to make that power. Kenwood makes a nice head unit. So that's good to. As for the cap... well there is so much controversy over caps. One thing I can tell you is that they have pros and cons. They dont do much for headlight dimming. Thats there main claim. They do however store and release needed energy. But I have had them installed and not installed and didnt notice much of a difference. Best things to do if you are pushing alot of power are the big 3 and high output alternator. 0/1 gauge is a must for that upgrade. Extra batteries are good if you sit with the engine off and as an extra storage tank. Kinda like a giant cap but the discharge/ charge rate is totally different. With any audio upgrade make sure your battery is up to par. Agm batteries are a little pricey but good for us audio fanatics. Now as for your wiring. If i could have seen the future I would have went straight to 0/1 from the battery back. But I thought 1200 watts would be good enough for me so I ran 4 awg. Since then ive upgraded subs and amp added amp. Upgraded subs and then upgraded amps again. . . . ( im a total Bass head )For like 500 to maybe 2000 watts at a long 17 to 20 foot run. I would do true ofc ( oxygen free copper ) 4 awg wire. If you find yourself getting the less expensive copper coated aluminum wire it will probably work but you might want to step up the gauge. Ofc has many advantages over the cheap wire. But it costs more. As for fusing. Get a 150 amp in line fuse as close to battery as possible. Use whatever fuse the amp comes with at the amp. That protects you from shorts causing a fire. The general rule for ground wire is max of 3 feet from amp. Make sure you grind any paint away from your ground location. You want a clean connection. Remote and rca is pretty straight forward. Run power wires on opposite side of vehicle from rca cables or you can end up with noise. I think that should pretty much answer your questions. Any others feel free to ask. No problem Brother
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