What to look for in capacitors?
11-02-2004, 11:14 AM
#3
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 500
because
with my beefed up alternator, 1ga. battery ground and 1 farad capacitor. i'm not confident that when i add another big amp to the setup that i will have enough reserve to keep my headlights from virtually flickering on and off when the bass kicks. and more importantly, enough reserve to feed the amps stable voltage.
when i do add the next amp i'll be running about a 2000-2500 rms setup.
with my beefed up alternator, 1ga. battery ground and 1 farad capacitor. i'm not confident that when i add another big amp to the setup that i will have enough reserve to keep my headlights from virtually flickering on and off when the bass kicks. and more importantly, enough reserve to feed the amps stable voltage.
when i do add the next amp i'll be running about a 2000-2500 rms setup.
11-02-2004, 11:49 AM
#4
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 609
I would complete your wiring.. (Big 3)
1. Run a 4 or 0GA direct from the ALT to the battery with a Fise in line (prolly 250-300 amp)
2. Run a 0GA ground from your Alternator bracket to the chassis of the Car - shortest distance possible.
After performing these steps Monitor your voltage right at the Amp with the car running, and don't rely on the voltage gauge on a digital capacitor, use an actual multimeter. You wanna stay above 12 volts.. most cars are 13.8+ when running.
With 2500 rms setup your draw will be up in the 200 to 250Amp range.. I suggest a second battery, specifically designed for high current non vented applications. Run a 0GA direct from the front battery to the back battery, then 4 or 0GA diret from that battery to your amp - shorter the distance the better.
And scrap the idea about the Capacitor if your looking to do SPL.
[ November 02, 2004, 12:50 PM: Message edited by: Rockney ]
1. Run a 4 or 0GA direct from the ALT to the battery with a Fise in line (prolly 250-300 amp)
2. Run a 0GA ground from your Alternator bracket to the chassis of the Car - shortest distance possible.
After performing these steps Monitor your voltage right at the Amp with the car running, and don't rely on the voltage gauge on a digital capacitor, use an actual multimeter. You wanna stay above 12 volts.. most cars are 13.8+ when running.
With 2500 rms setup your draw will be up in the 200 to 250Amp range.. I suggest a second battery, specifically designed for high current non vented applications. Run a 0GA direct from the front battery to the back battery, then 4 or 0GA diret from that battery to your amp - shorter the distance the better.
And scrap the idea about the Capacitor if your looking to do SPL.
[ November 02, 2004, 12:50 PM: Message edited by: Rockney ]
11-02-2004, 12:11 PM
#5
500 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 500
rockney,
thanks for the advice. i'll take it into account when i sort out my system later this month. i'm not going for spl though. my system is setup for a mix of both sq and spl. at least that's what i'm trying to accomplish.
thanks for the advice. i'll take it into account when i sort out my system later this month. i'm not going for spl though. my system is setup for a mix of both sq and spl. at least that's what i'm trying to accomplish.
11-02-2004, 02:42 PM
#6
i was thinking when u look for a cap make sure it has the lowest distortion possible ---> i would step it up a little to 3 farads and run 0 gauge wire -------> if u have a little extra money instead of the cap get a better battery or ALT good luck
11-02-2004, 04:49 PM
#9
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 456
look for high damping factor, and a good lossless conversion ratio. Be sure that it can create an inductive field >200omhs at +/- 100vrms. umm, yeah...
Go with what Haunz said. Match it to what you already have. cheaper, with the same net outcome.
Go with what Haunz said. Match it to what you already have. cheaper, with the same net outcome.
11-02-2004, 04:53 PM
#10
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 866
Originally posted by King Dynasty:
i was thinking when u look for a cap make sure it has the lowest distortion possible ---> i would step it up a little to 3 farads and run 0 gauge wire -------> if u have a little extra money instead of the cap get a better battery or ALT good luck
i was thinking when u look for a cap make sure it has the lowest distortion possible ---> i would step it up a little to 3 farads and run 0 gauge wire -------> if u have a little extra money instead of the cap get a better battery or ALT good luck
Also you must have a electrical system to support the current draw of your amps. Adding another cap will be counter productive.
A 500 watt per cap is a great rule of thumb, but extrememly costly and not needed. I use a 1F cap in my system with 1300 watts RMS. I have zero problems with head lights. I also have great transient response. [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
