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Why do I have two 15" subwoofers?

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Old 10-22-2006, 10:41 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by shingdaz
Just make sure you build a new box that is tuned higher, Rap=30HZ Techno=60HZ...get it?
Tune for both with an ABC box. With a little advice from Dukk I made one and it was the best sounding box I've ever built. Should be lots of information around on how to build one.
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Old 10-22-2006, 10:53 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Hardwrkr
Get some better midbass drivers then.

Don't need to, I'm happy with my drivers I have: @ $400 a pair, they do what they have to do, nothing less, nothing more.
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:28 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Nickelnutz
Tune for both with an ABC box. With a little advice from Dukk I made one and it was the best sounding box I've ever built. Should be lots of information around on how to build one.

ABC is the rip
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Old 10-22-2006, 02:37 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by shingdaz
Don't need to, I'm happy with my drivers I have: @ $400 a pair, they do what they have to do, nothing less, nothing more.
Which totally contradicts your previous post of:

Originally Posted by shingdaz
I also have the ability to allow the subs to play up to 180HZ...thus giving me the impact necessary for techno...(where as when tuned lower, cuts off allot of my upper mid-bass impact, where my 6" can't reproduce as dynamically)...your box might roll~ofF alot of higher freq'ys above 40~hz very sharply...cutting off the sound regardless of how high you set your LP filter...meaning if you low end cuts off up to 80HZ...your box cuts it off at 40HZ...diluting upper mid-bass response your door woofer can never play loud enough.

You shouldn't have to have your subs playing up to 180Hz to get good midbass response. There are plenty of reasons to never have your dedicated sub bass drivers playing that high not the least of which is with most subs located behind the listener at higher frequencies the subs location becomes much easier to locate with your ears. A decent dedicated midbass properly installed should give plenty of impact allowing your dedicated sub bass drivers to reproduce the sub bass it was designed to produce.

If your fancy $400 a pair midbass speakers can't get the job done they were either the wrong driver for your application or their install was poorly done.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:31 PM
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Nothing wrong with my drivers or Install and deffiantly no localization issues...the sound of woomf woomf from my subs LP @ 60HZ is not my idea of balanced sound. A good sub LP @ 170HZ will always out-perform any 6"woofer in the mid-bass region, no 6" woofer has the same dynamic impact as a sub LP higher...and no 6" door woofer is ever capable of producing punchy upper midbass dynamics that are felt in your chest cavity. My subs hit hard and blend in very smoothly with my fronts.

Last edited by shingdaz; 10-22-2006 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:34 PM
  #86  
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Care to explain why is that happening?
Sorry I'm a noob.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by shingdaz
"and no 6" door woofer is ever capable of producing punchy upper midbass dynamics that are felt in your chest cavity."

Righty then, either you have not really experienced car audio as you claim or their is a inherent design flaw with your system. But hey, if your system works for you that is all that matters.
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:00 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by shingdaz
Nothing wrong with my drivers or Install and deffiantly no localization issues...the sound of woomf woomf from my subs LP @ 60HZ is not my idea of balanced sound. A good sub LP @ 170HZ will always out-perform any 6"woofer in the mid-bass region, no 6" woofer has the same dynamic impact as a sub LP higher...and no 6" door woofer is ever capable of producing punchy upper midbass dynamics that are felt in your chest cavity. My subs hit hard and blend in very smoothly with my fronts.
ok, i disagree with this on several levels, but ill go point by point.

my midbass hit down to 80 hz... theyll go down around 65 if i tune for it, but i dont have the power to do that.
it is loud, deep, and authoratative, playing an 80hz test tone, they sound like small subs.

i also tend to wonder about your meaning of no localization, i dont know exactly how youve got your system set up, but on every sub ive ever heard, anything over 100-120hz will allow you to pinpoint its location.
I would like to know what kind of box you have that allows you to defeat this phenominon, because ive got a project that a setup like that would be perfectly suited for.

as for no 6" woofer being able to perform like a sub, why not?
what is the difference between a 6" or 8" sub, and a 12" besides size?
do they not both have cones, spiders, coils, poles?
a speaker is a speaker is a driver is a woofer, theyre just optimized for different frequency ranges.
get enough cone area from 3" speakers and they will produce just as much bass as a 12" sub.
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:26 PM
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Ok nevermind I misread the post.
And let's leave this guy alone.
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by shingdaz
Nothing wrong with my drivers or Install and deffiantly no localization issues...the sound of woomf woomf from my subs LP @ 60HZ is not my idea of balanced sound. A good sub LP @ 170HZ will always out-perform any 6"woofer in the mid-bass region, no 6" woofer has the same dynamic impact as a sub LP higher...and no 6" door woofer is ever capable of producing punchy upper midbass dynamics that are felt in your chest cavity. My subs hit hard and blend in very smoothly with my fronts.
I can't beleive i just read that a good sub LP at 170hz.I've never had a sub LP's higher than 70HZ myself. Anything over 80Hz is considered mid bass( hence name midwoofer) anything below is considered sub bass ( hence name subwoofer).Just think abouit it, you're using a SUB-woofer for MId-bass, get it.
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