Will my lights dim when more power is used when I change my system?
 

Of course i'd have an amp but i'm not sure if that'll be enough to stop it from using too much power and dimming my lights. If that is what will happen, what can I do to fix that??

A. Get a cap
B. Do the "Big 3"
C. Do not blair it
D. Get a smaller size Class D amp
E. All of the above

have a good battery, and large wire to help with it.. I find caps dont do anything.

So any of those would work? And what's a class d amp and whats a smaller amp? like watts or what? thanks for the advice also, and what's the big 3? I'm looking for something preferably I could do myself

The big three upgrade is changing the power wires underneath the hood (Battery to chassis,Alternator to battery, Engine block to chassis)generally there are 3 wires but usually more(don't forget to make the wire from the battery to the amp the proper guage as well). By upgrade we mean a larger guage wire with proper terminal ends. As for can you do it yourself generally people who are unsure about what the upgrade is shouldn't do it themselves, or at least be supervised by a professional with experince. Preferably someone who does it for a living. Please don't take offence I don't know you or what you can or can't do so I make a general statement.A cap will next to nothing and is a bandaid solution, the lights dim because there is not enough electrical energy(current) in the system to operate properly. The source of current in your car is your alternator, so if your lights are dimming then you need a better alternator(more current reserve) or less current usage which brings me to the last point. D class amplifiers are more efficient than the other traditional classes. For example your average AB class amp(2 or four channel amps for the most part) are around 40-50% efficient. So half of the current they use goes towards making useable power the other half is used up making heat. Your average monoblock D-class is about 70-85% percent effecient. More efficiency means less current used to make the same power. The down side is they tend to be more expensive than there AB counter parts, and most are NOT suitable for use on midrange speakers(just about anything that's not a sub) I think I covered everything!lol

^^^ Thank you! I looked at the questions, and suddenly felt lazy to explain all that^^^

There should be a sticky somewhere for that question! Not that I'm really complaning though, trying to get my post count up.

Due to your limited knowledge on car audio and installation (no offence intended dude), have a shop do the BIG 3 upgrade for you as part of the installation. This is something that shops do all the time, we have all the parts and all the tools to do it PROPERLY. You still seem to be struggling with trying to learn things. Have you gone to see Jeff down in Morden yet?

I'll try and no, before I decide on anything I probably will though