splescort

iTrader: (16)

hey i am gonna put 8 10" subs (maybe ten 10s) and a wall in a 1996 hyundai accent hachback
any tips

i am getting a HO alt and a few batteries
i got all the 0 ga wire i need

i am looking to wall it and have a put that i can crawl in to any tips... i think if i am not mistaken the subs requrire 1.75 cuft per sub ported and a tunring of 40hz and that is what the company recemends

i want the car to be loud and still be able to play music. as a daily driver
but i would love to do high 148db or more i have had cars do 147 but i have never tryed to get higher.

worldind

iTrader: (17)

A 148+ with eight or ten 10s in a wall sounds preeeeeeetty do-able.

rorybreaker

The first question I ask is how "competition" is this car? Is it a big deal if you can never change your mind after starting this? I can walk you through walling for max displacement and build a tough *** box, but it's very perminent and the car's useless except for DB drag with my method.
An accent is 2 door right?

splescort

iTrader: (16)

well i dont needthe back seat and i do have a nother car but i want to be able to drive this thing to the show and maybe a weekend driver.

CanadianBassGuy

iTrader: (2)

Aside from your electrical upgrades and depending on what method you use to build the wall, you might want to consider a suspension upgrade. All that equipment and materials could put a strain on an Accent suspension.

rorybreaker

weeeeell, here goes then. The method I used was to remove all the front seats/console/headliner/carpet/plastic interior parts near the wall location/ect. so I have some room. I spent a lot of time making my template for the wall out of cardboard (find a fridge box near a Sears store), and then using the cardboard to transfer the design over to 3/8 plywood and start getting a really good fit with it. The plywood template won't be as flexible.

I traced along the front of the joint between the plywood and the body steel of the car with a jiffy and pulled the template out. I joisted the rear of the line with doubled up blocks of mdf and hundreds of self tapping screws, it's important to joist as much of the edge of the wall as possible.

Transfer the design from the plywood to 2 or more sheets of MDF and cut them out with a jig saw. Test fit all your layers of the wall and make any adjustments needed. With wood glue or PL run a bead or 3 around the perimiter of the joisting and stuff the first sheet in. Paint the face of the first layer with white glue, as well as the rear of the second. install the second, then repeat until you've got enough layers of wall that it's solid.

Get out a box of deck screws and drive scews every few inches through all the plys to squeeze them together. This uses tons of screws, so don't run out. I always started from the middle and worked outwards to try to squeeze as much exess glue out as possible. Finally drive the screws through the perimiter into the joisting.

Days later after everything has dried climb through the trunk and mat the whole interior of the box with 1/2 inch of fiberglass. This is the most expensive and time consuming part of the process.

After everything is installed I tightened the hatch loop so I had to slam the outta it for it to stay closed, but it still moved quite a bit. In the end I got WAY more displacement than if I'd built an MDF box in the trunk but it had lacluster SQ for obvious reasons.

there's no reason you couldn't build a box in there for better acoustics and performance, my project needed max volume. In the end I moved all the batteries and amps into the passenger seat area and welded the trunk shut, but it changed very little.