Why aren't my subs hitting as hard as they should?
 

Okay so recently I had gone to a local audio shop and purchased a $3k system including the head unit, speakers, amps, and dual subs. They are apparently complete idiots and I had to correct most of their work (I have a decent background with car audio). After much annoyance I have seemed to "fix" everything but my subs. It's not that they don't work, but they just don't hit nearly as hard as they should. My subs are the dual 12" CompR series in the kicker box ( Kicker 40DCWR122 Ported enclosure with dual 12" CompR subwoofers at Crutchfield.com ) powered by a kicker cx1200.1 ( Kicker 12CX1200.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 1200 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com ). I've played with all the settings on both the amp and the head unit and so far I can't seem to get the bass as loud as I feel it should be. I've had 10' kickers powered by an off-brand (boss) amp and the bass is comparable. That shouldn't happen! Thanks in advance for any replies!

I hate to break it to you but you were taken for a ride you have probably 750 dollars worth of equipment there , if you have dual 2 subwoofers , your amps probably only seeing 600 watts so in reality your not seeing alot of power

again im sorry to say but you were taken to the cleaners by your local shop , in the future , get a quote find out what the products go for on a retail level , and break the costs down , that way you dont get screwed

Luke is right so right.

For $3000 dollars damn ill end up with 5000w system, upgraded electrical and compete at shows.

Sorry to hear about ur low end set up.

How do you figure a 5000watt system. I sell amps that are 1x500watts and are over $1000 and a 80 x 4 amp that is $1300 so if sold you those amps you would have a 820watt system but the current and headroom would be great.

People need to learn what the ratings on amps really mean and the specs to really look at. Comparing only Wattage would be like only looking at horsepower when looking at cars and not looking at anything else, you can have all the horsepower in the world but if you don't have torque your not gonna go anywhere.

I have hit over 150db using a 2500watt amp, just a really good one not a $500 5000watt amp

And luke99 its hard to say that he was taken for a ride considering that he has only named off 2 components of the whole system,what if he got a new nav deck ($1000 on average) and got a few sets of decent speakers plus install and parts, depending on the car you could need up to $400 in modules just to put a deck into some vehicles, I have no idea who did the install or sale of this system but you have to be fair and look at the whole system.

as for the system at hand, the amp that you are running is 1200watts but the control over your subs isn't great so you might want to get a little better amp that would control the mass of the woofer a little better. Also what type of vehicle is this in and what was your last system in with the Boss amp? or was it the same vehicle?

You probably sold the OP his system cause your amps are overpriced, not unless they have magical ferry dust springled on the output section or brazilian smoke machines.

The OP bought 2 12's for subs you really think he was thinking to himself about how good the damping factor is or how many watts the amp has.

If the goal or end result was to go 10 seconds in the quarter mile does it really matter if you did it in a $500 mustang?

We should start a new audio sound league where people burp 10-20 cycles of transient bass lines on infinite baffle 18" subs to see which amp has better cone control on 8ohms

AnthonyP, if you have a decent background in car audio, why pay a shop?! Which shop was it?

Stearnzy, what are the brands and model numbers on your 500x1 and 80x4 amps that you sell?

5000w RMS system can easily be done in $3000 if you had to.

For example if you got with Soundqubed equipment:
Four HDS315 - $149 each with free shipping - $600
Two QC-HF6.5 - $99 each with free shipping - $200
Two Q1-2200 amplifiers - $429 each with free shipping - $860
One Q2-200 amplifier $219 with free shipping - $219

$1879

A quality aftermarket alternator by DC power or Singer for example - $450
Four AGM batteries - usually $100 each for something like DieHard Platnum - $400
MDF, resin, bracing rods, etc- $150 to build the enclosure at most
Wire - some good quality KNU concepts wire to get a couple positive and negative runs and fusing and etc - $200.

Total - about $3079.

That gives you four 1200w RMS 15s, two 2200w RMS bass amps, 680w RMS 2 channel amp, four 100w RMS component sets. Total system amplifier rated power - 5080w RMS

This is what I would do.. remove the subs from the box. bench test them on the bench.. to see if these sub has the motor to produce the punch. if it does, put it back in the box.. (assuming the box is still in the car) and see if the punch is still there with the window down, then with window up. if it's softer and has less punch on the initial attacks. then you know where the problem is.. If the box sound punchy and has good lows, you know is probably the amp or whatever is up stream like if the sub's x-over is set too low like 50hz or less then ideal slope (/12db/octave at 50hz) etc. usually 80-85hz /24db/octave LR is pretty good. :)

I think people are missing that it was 3K on the entire system. This is VERY easily done with a deck (likely DVD), any data modules, dash kit, steering wheel control modules, speakers, speaker amp, wiring, not to mention the subs and amp. Add tax as well... Install on top of everything too however that wasn't mentioned.

First thing to look at is if the sub/box combo is 4 ohm or 2 ohm. Those kicker set-ups came in either or. If it's 4 ohm then you need to take them back and get the 2 ohm version.

What kind of vehicle is it in? Keep in mind a trunk car will be a lot quieter than a hatchback.

there is so much wrong in this thread lol... except the post by Wasted which I agree with...

I got my 2 American Bass HD15D2's and VFL 750.1 Amp for $1800 brand new. Spent $150 on two and a half sheet of birch wood, $500 for my Singer 320 amp alternator and $150 for wire. 5k build (just for my subs) for less than $3k however im doing my own install because 1 no one sells AB here where I am and 2 i wasnt going to pay $600 for a box build and another $300-400 for it to be installed.

Add my JVC double din head unit $345 into that I bought 2 year ago and my Helix Blue 6.5's $90 a pair x 2, and wiring harness $75 comes up to $3200 and thats a 5240 watt rms set up.

Personally Id never pay that for Kicker unless it was some L7's and a 2500.1 but everyone is different.

Hope you get it sounding that way you want.