If it's like most of the Dodges I work on, the deck has two line level outputs that go to the amp and then it controls volume and fade/balance through the CAN bus.

OT: Well, I'm a PA boy, but I'm kickin' it here for a few years to get a degree

 

Alright, we have one item picked out:

PACAudio CHY-23
Next in line: Equalizer.

Now I don't know if these are used anymore or not, I have used one in the past and I did like what it did for the flexibility of the sound system, as well as giving control over the sub level, as the factory deck doesn't offer that.

An affordable one that I was looking at was the Clarion EQS746.

• 7-Band Graphic Equalizer
• 6-Channel / 7 Volt RCA Outputs (Front/Rear/Subwoofer)
• Adjustable Master Volume Level Control
• Adjustable Subwoofer Level Control
• 2-Channel RCA AUX Input with Adjustable Gain
• Selectable 12dB Low-Pass Crossover (60Hz or 90Hz)
• Gold Plated Terminals

Good idea or no? Alternatives? I'd like a bit more flexibility than
BASS-MID-TREBLE
Pic:

 

Look at Massive's EQ4p, which does everything the Clarion does, but is a 4 band parametric so u can modify the curve EXACTLY where u want to. They also have a 7-band EQ7. Maybe worth looking into.

 

How much experience do you have with EQs?
Sometime it's better to have less control, simply because you can mess up the sound and have a hard time getting it back to good again.
I have a 64-band equalizer in my car and I've set it up once and never touched it since. So keep that in mind.

I feel like all EQs from major brands will be fine. The deciding factor will be how many bands of EQsation you want. I've worked with Kicker and AudioControl in the past and was happy with the results.

 

For what it is - an expanded tone control with sub and volume level -the Clarion is a good piece.

If you want a real equalizer to tune your system for your car, then I would look more to an Audison BitOne or something like it.

 

Nah, I don't even know what it means to tune my system.

That's exactly what I'm looking for. A little more control, especially in the high frequencies, and subwoofer control. Plan on installing it in the center console. I had an older one that I bought off a buddy and it worked OK but picked up a lot of noise on the sub channel, I think it was because it was probably mishandled (ie:dropped or run over) but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't be picking up any unwanted noise thru one of these.

 

Amplifier:

Original plan was to go 5 channel, however it was suggested to go 4 channel and bridge the back 2 channels for a sub feed. I like this idea, if I want to add rear speakers or a monoblock amp for the sub(s) the option to expand is there, with a 5 ch, you're done unless you want to replace the amp.

Narrowed down to two choices:

Alpine PDX F6

150W X 4 or
150W X 2 plus 300X1 bridged




JL AUDIO HD 600/4
Same stats as the PDX



Is the JL worth the extra $200-$300?

 

IMO, no.

It has some nice extra tuning features on board, essentially a very simple, one frequency equalizer. Aside from that, I see no reason to put down the extra cash unless you're going for a specific cosmetic look.

I might be biased though

 

Sweet. Either amp would be a good choice - and a hella amount of power.

 

Brad:

Nice looking setup you have there. Any more pics of the install?

Dukk: Thanks for the confirmation. PDX F6 it is.

Now, obviously changing the amp, and not installing speakers in the rear doors changes things, speaker wise.

Instead of spending ~$475 on two sets of speakers, I can spend that on one set of components for the front.

I'm looking at 3 way components, mainly because I like the full range sound coming from the dash. I think 150RMS clean power crossed over properly to some nice 3.5"-s would sound very good along side some kick a$$ 6.5" mids properly installed in the doors with the tweets either in the window pillars or the door pillar.

I've read that 3-ways are not recommended to those who aren't that serious about car stereo because they are difficult to tune.

I don't really know what tuning means, I just want loud clear music coming out of three locations!

So, talk me out of 3 ways or suggest me your favorite 2 way components, or tell me which 3-way set to buy!

Couple sets of three ways in my price range:

JL Audio C5-653

• Rec. Power Range (per channel): 25 - 150 Watts
• System Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms
• System Frequency Response: 48 Hz - 25 KHz
• Mineral-filled polypropylene cone body for the woofer and mid-range drivers
• Rub

ber surround enhances the suspension and speaker's linearity

Cadence CVL3-WK

• 150 Watts RMS Power
• 400 Watts MAX Power
• 2" High Temperature CCAR Voice Coil on TIL Bobbin
• 3-Ohm, Neodymium Woofer Motor Structure
• Carbon/Kevlar Composite Cone Midbass-Midrange Driver

I'm sure there's more. Suggestions/comments Please! I really appreciate the help, I know I can't offer much in return besides a modest build thread when it's time. You guys have been awesome.