Has anyone installed sound deadening in the winter? Im wondering if I'll be able to install it when its cold out.

How much, if any, harder is it to install...


Thanks

As long as you have aheated garage you should be alright, but if you don't I would reccomend waiting till spring.

I second that

I installed my first round of Dynamat sound deadener when it was about 8 degrees outside and it only got colder after that because it was fall. Wait until spring to do the install because at least with the warm weather it will give the sound deadener a long enough time to cure to the metal in the car.

Here is my little how to:

Start your vehicle
Put the sound deadener sheets on the engine
Cut as needed and install

Swear profusely when the sound deadener touches the cold metal and gets really hard really fast.

Adam

Two words for heating up/melting sound deadening when it's cold.

Blow Torch

+Fire extinguisher

I work in a welding shop I could help you guys out. We have like 4 torches and I could get that dynamat warm quick :D

X

It is MUCH easier to apply when you can let it sit in the hot sun for about an hour before applying it. I wouldn't try it now.

Ya just take the shop to ottawa [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ November 01, 2003, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Team Obsession ]

wasn't it nice of x to offer to go down east to preheat your dynamat.a better way of him bringing heat is for him to tell his g/f( :mad: ) about the amps that he just bought. we'll be able to get all of our cars done simultaneously :D :D :D

[ November 04, 2003, 01:45 AM: Message edited by: Loud Brown Kicker Colt ]

Two words: Heat gun. Works wonders.

No, I'm not talking about wimpy hairdryers. 1100°F mofos will work good.

I third that, but if you don't have a heated garage or the time to wait for spring, then grab the ol hairdryer or heatgun and turn on the heater in the vehicle for a bit. That should help.

I started my deadening last November on one of the coldest weeks in an unheated single car garage. I spent $30 to rent an electric heater and had no problems with brownbread (the dynomat brand is not as easy to install no matter what the weather is). I placed the roll of brownbread close enough to the heater that it was alway the proper temp and pressed the mat to the car by hand (let your fingers heat and press the deadening to the car).

Original Dynamat is hard to make stick without heat, but if you have a heat gun it works well.

There seems to have been no problem for me using Dyna Extreme or eDead though. Almost didn't need a heatgun except for making sure it molds around tight spots.

I'll have to say though, that if anyone's done an entire car, or at least a great deal of it, that it's the most time consuming part of installing a stereo.

Deadening is a tedious waste of time. It would have been better to buy a quieter car that came deadened (like any lincoln or better). I took a week off work to deaden the car, then spent another week deadening, and still have to deaden the doors (all 4). The worst part is the suspension and wheels create lots of noise, and you can never stop the noise that comes in from the windows. Deadening is great if you compete (and have your car parked while listening to music), but it will never compete with a car that was designed from ground zero to be quiet (Lexus, Mercedes, etc.). With better cars you only need to fix the resonant spots, not the car.

I am happy with my car, but the time and money spent is hard to justify. Now I have to upgrade the brakes to stop my car in a reasonable distance.

I don't know about the original Dynamat...I've used the Extreme Dynamat...had no problems...the nicest stuff I've used to date although it's kinda expensive...is the Cascade deadener.....real easy to use...didn't take much heat for it to adhere

The dynamat extreme is easy to install compared to most, however the brownbread is much easier and takes the curves much better (also much cheaper).

I unfortunately had to resort to Dyna Extreme and Original, I was in a pinch (pinches hurt)...so I got ripped. Oh, well. 120 sq ft of eDead for 160 bucks made up for that. Haha, eDead is fun to apply. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

for dynamat original, you NEED a heatgun to put it on. It MUST be heated quite a bit to be applied properly, make the glue adhere properly, and make it conform.

Yeah, I figured that much. It sticks real good with high heat.
Sound deadening isn't a waste of time. I'd rather do that than spend tens of thousands more on a car I can't afford.

HEHE, I bet the Shelby had to be pretty dead when you first got it eh? Musta felt like being in a cadillac LOL

Ever sat in a Plymouth Laser? that's the deadest car ever :rolleyes: Right up there with Chevettes L

I remember when we had DMAC's WRX in at radioactive, all of us standing there in awe when lee shut the door. That thing is DEAD. Especially for a new car...we all know how they are building them these days.

Dynamat and the like are dampening materials and good at it. They couple with the metal and make it more rigid and dampen vibrations. But the goal is not only to make your cars sheet metal vibrate less, the goal is also to stop as much outside noise from coming in. They excel at stopping low frequencies from entering (good for road and exhaust noise). But to block out the full audio spectrum that is being discussed here the use of noise diffraction, noise absorption and noise cancellation can be used. To design noise cancellation is tough in a car (or anywhere else) and is seldom used. Adding odd shapes that reflect sound away from the listener is diffraction (this is the same principle as stealth aircraft though the use absorption and radar invisible materials). That leaves absorption, which dynamat does poorly above a fixed frequency (I am guessing 200 Hz their web site might have this) to address this area, the bulk of the freq spectrum, a light weight material usually fibrous (like the felt-like stuff in cars, or spun fiberglass, or 3M Marine Thinsulate) is used. They, like Dynamat, convert sound energy to heat by trapping the sound waves in a fibrous labyrinth. They are less effective if compressed and like this type of thermal insulation need the air entrapment. I use Thinsulate and it is effective from 1000 Hz up. It is like attic fiberglass except it isn’t glass, and doesn’t make you itch and it weighs much less than fiberglass inch for inch. How does it affect sound... picture a heavy snow coming down ever notice how cars are very quiet, that is due to the snow attenuating the sound. To get the same affect with a dampener you got to use a lot of Dynamat.

So my point [img]graemlins/deal4u.gif[/img] is to use several things to stop noise not one. Mass loading is good (some use cement like stuff), using all the tools is better lighter and cheaper.

HA yeah!

I din't see this until now.

She knows now but she wasn't impressed!

X