Going active
The plan is to use my KS300.2 for the ES-06 and ill purchase the ES-02 for the upper mid and high but i need an amp for those too.
So what amp will be adequate for those little ES-02 (10w) ? SQ and small footprint is the key. I was looking at the arc KS125.2 mini but it think it will be overkill for those... |
No such thing as overkill for SQ, headroom is a good thing.
Good choice on the Arc mini.
Originally Posted by lpchouinard
(Post 471994)
The plan is to use my KS300.2 for the ES-06 and ill purchase the ES-02 for the upper mid and high but i need an amp for those too.
So what amp will be adequate for those little ES-02 (10w) ? SQ and small footprint is the key. I was looking at the arc KS125.2 mini but it think it will be overkill for those... |
I told you to try out my Arc KS300.4 to see if you find it enough to drive the ES-06s...
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Originally Posted by sirsleepsalot
(Post 472021)
I told you to try out my Arc KS300.4 to see if you find it enough to drive the ES-06s...
Hold on, unless you want to bridge the 300.4 to feed the 06 350w per driver... :smilie_da that i approved! |
+1 for the Arc mini, and will expect a comparison review of your 15" CSS and two new Icon 12's, and I am also curious how those ES-02's will work out. Please chime in later.
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Originally Posted by lpchouinard
(Post 472027)
90w is not enough for the 06! that's why you're getting a 300.2 for yours :cheeky4:
Hold on, unless you want to bridge the 300.4 to feed the 06 350w per driver... :smilie_da that i approved! |
Originally Posted by sirsleepsalot
(Post 472346)
I'm getting the 300.2 for mine because I figured I'd need it prior to getting the 300.4. If a 2 channel amp driving as much as the 300.4 was there, I'd settle for that. But, for cosmetic reasons and the fact that the amp is already ordered, I'll be going with the 300.2. It's massive overkill.
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ok so the plan changed a bit...
I got a KS300.4 instead of the 125.2mini, and I will use the CDT ES-06,ES-02 and DRT-26T for the front stage. The 02 and DRT-26 will use a xover (CDT m200) since the 300.4 does not allow me to use the frequency multiplier (1x/10x) on both rear and front doh! :thumbsdow They will be powered by the ks300.2 and ill bridge the ks300.4 for the 06. Unless someone as a better idea... This weekend I installed the drt-26t in the A-pillar (off-axis) and OMG my staging is a lot better now, also the titanium brings out details that the DRT-26S(ilk) was not able to reproduce. http://lpcx.com/van/apillar.jpg As for the SSA ICON, those subs are simply amazing. It's day and night compared to the CSS SDX-15. It wasn't just a box issue since both box were made by thumpper. The 2 12 even if ported now blend with the FS surprisingly well and if I want to have some fun I activate my SPL preset in my HU :cheeky4: for the ES-02 I am still waiting for the pods and xover to install them |
LOL I changed my mind again...
So after some thinking, ill be able to go fully active. Also, ill install some ES-03 instead of the ES-02. The plan now is to use the CD7200 output(6ch) to feed the 8 channel.(or 7 if your picky about the sub). The HI preout will be only for the tweeter, the MID will be split (Y) for the mid and midbass and LOW for the subs. For the mid I will set at the HU the HP for my midbass and the LP for the mid, on the amp ill set the LP for the midbass and HP for the mid. I can't wait to finally put this together... |
With this setup, I guess ill have some problem with the TA adjustment...
The ES-06 are in the doors, the ES-03 will go into the dash stock location (with some modification) and the DRT-26 are in the A-pillar. There's no place in the kick for the 03. There's a good distance between the 06 and 03 so i guess i am screwed! What can i do...? Replacing the HU is not an option for now |
Ok so i changed a few things again... Got a CDA-9887, PXA-H701/RUX-c700 and some CDT es-4 mids.
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...3-cdt-es-4.jpg This is what ive done to the factory teminals http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...-terminals.jpg http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...wer-wiring.jpg I am also workin on an amp rack for my 2 Arc and they will go under the passenger seat http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...at-removed.jpg http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...5-amp-rack.jpg Still lots of things to do and no time... but it's still fun:smilie_da |
Originally Posted by lpchouinard
(Post 485526)
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I know the feeling of always changing your mind and plans.
Anyways that H701 is a great tool, a lot of fun and easy to use..and it's tuff unlike the RF units. I just sold my h701 on ebay for a rediculous amount.. 2 weeks later I find one local for 200$ ... lucky me. |
Originally Posted by avidedtr
(Post 485734)
Looking good....Nice H701:smokin:
Originally Posted by AAAAAAA
(Post 485831)
I know the feeling of always changing your mind and plans.
Anyways that H701 is a great tool, a lot of fun and easy to use..and it's tuff unlike the RF units. The only thing i am afraid is the ES-4 location, but i have to try the easy way first, right? |
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So now i am waiting for my new RCA to clean up the wiring.
Attachment 6812Attachment 6813 I also plan to une some loom to protect the wires, unless there's something "better" out there :dunno: As for the sound, i have the famous zipper noise but I can live with that and i will need a trained ear to tune this thing... i know there's something wrong but i cant put my finger on it. It sound good, but with certain song it sound unbalanced. |
What's "the zipper noise"?
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Found this on the interweb
Originally Posted by CARSOUND.COM
But one thought I have regarding the "poping" or clicking noise during volume changes. Especially since it's worse at high volumes ... this may be a classic case of so-called "zipper noise" ... essentially the audible artifact of "step" changes in volume with electronic (that is, not analog potentiometer) volume control chips. Generally speaking, there are two ways to combat zipper noise : 1. Algorithmically "ramp" the volume in a gentle fashion when the user requests a volume change. This must be implemented in a DSP chip inside the unit. 2. Wait for a "zero crossing" of the signal, before you implement the volume change requested by the user. The signal will NOT have an abrupt level change ... the culprit of zipper noise ... if the gain change occurs when the signal is zero This can be implemented in a DSP chip inside the unit, or there are some volume control chips (like the lovely Wolfson) that have this function built-in. Now I recall in my review of the H900, that the volume control chips used did NOT have any of these options in them. So we concluded that the DSP chips in the H900 must be implementing one of the two above algorithms to avoid zipper noise (since there have apparently been no complaints of zipper in the H900). So here's a speculation ... perhaps, since the DSP horsepower of the H700 is of course less than that of the H900, some shortcuts were made in the volume control algorithms? I know that's not a very satisfying answer for the user |
I have a DVI-9990/PXI-H990 combo and I get the "zipper" noise.
It is only when using the AUX inputs though, never on DVD-A,CD or tuner. |
Wow even their top gear have this problem...
In a IASCA comp do you lose point because of the "zipper noise"? |
I replace the 9887 with a dva-9861... Weird i think the dva sound better, should it?
I also got my new RCA, i should have finish cleaning the wiring before the show on the 21... |
I do not think DVA should sound better, but I hope it does for your sake :) Plain cd players always sounded better then dvd players, but in your case, if you're running optical cable to the processor, you're using processor's DAC, so I doubt you'll hear any difference going from one unit to the next, but you already knew that, right?
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That's the weird thing, it was just a swap and was using my ipod (analog)...
I guess my brain is playing trick on me... again! |
Originally Posted by lpchouinard
(Post 491158)
Wow even their top gear have this problem...
In a IASCA comp do you lose point because of the "zipper noise"? I noticed this last night when playing one of the Autosound 2000 discs. It had never occured on CD source material before because I had always used a laptop and the AUX inputs for test tones. |
^^^ My goodness. Sick gear alert!!!! :D
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Originally Posted by eng92
(Post 493032)
I narrowed it down a little further. The "zipper" noise on the Alpine F1 gear only happens on test tones (ie. single frequency sine waves) never on musical source material.
I noticed this last night when playing one of the Autosound 2000 discs. It had never occured on CD source material before because I had always used a laptop and the AUX inputs for test tones. |
The zipper noise is more common in the H700 and H701. I dont even notice it. And as far as I know, no points are deducted for it.
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So I got the 4th place in SQi at yesterday show in Whitby, not bad for a first... Thanks to SirSleepalot for the tuning.:smilie_da
The tonal accuracy is where I lost most of my point Lack of sub bass: well that was predictable since I use a ported box and the level was at a minimum to prevent too much sub bass, next step build a sealed box. Little more mid-bass: Damn, this was lowered to prevent the too much mid-bass comment... I guess ill turn it up a notch for the next comp. Good mid-high: For reference, I am using the factory location for the mids and the tweet are mounted off-axis in the A-pillard. I also have a small imaging problem (there's a slight shift to the left for the center ) so i guess the next logical step will be to build pods. |
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Small update
I'm now replacing the 2 12" SSA ICON and the Sundown 1500D for............................. 1 10" IDMAX and an Alpine PDX-1.1000 :eek: Yup that's right, major downgrade in term of output BUT major upgrade in accuracy :smilie_da the box that i have for the SSA have so much port area that a low volume or under the tuning frequency they are non existent. So now ill have the 10 installed between the 2 front seat (front firing) and the and amp and processor installed under my seat. Premilinary testing are looking good and the sub blend perfectly with the front stage. BTW huge thanks to Sikk Nation for spending 2 hours with me figuring what would be the best location for a new sub in the caravan. For those who like pictures here's the gear Attachment 7584 Attachment 7585 |
I still want to hear it now :)
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here's the final look. new cup holder to replace the one i can't access anymore... :smilie_da
before you ask, yes it's screwed to the box and fully deadened underneat Attachment 7708 Love it so far and some song are perfect to mix the sugar in my coffee. |
Wow, I can feel it sounds great :)
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it does, but if the box touch the seat it vibrate the entire seat (like a bass shaker) and i don't like it. But if i leave a 1/8 of an inch gap it blend with the FS and the bass appear to come from the stage. Really happy with the end result. Now my problem is that with the cold i'm getting new rattle (dilatation/retraction?) Well it's going in the shop tomorrow for a layer in the interior door panel, let's hope it help.
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looks like a sweet setup i like the amp mount.
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