Help with front stage?
Hi there everyone. I need some advice on adding to my front stage please. I've got a 5.25 component set already up fron powered by an old school Rodek 280e (Zed Audio) and an Eclipse 8445 head unit. The car is a '90 BMW 735i. The front stage is already quite nice actually and it even surprised the install shop that did the work. I want to add something to the doors however as the 5.25 are in the front kick panels by your feet.
Would a single 5.25, 6.5 driver, coax or an additional full component set be the best for this? I will most likely just run the 280e down to 2 ohm stereo so the rating will basically double 2x160 (as it did in the old days LOL) Would a coax or an additional full component set be too harsh on the highs? Any help would be great!!!! Thanks |
i had that car or almost 1988 735i
i would set that car up like this a good set of focals with the tweeters in the stock placemints the 5 1/4 in the stock place and do a V looking box in the ski pass (the V make a box that has the two subs in the V i think i would do sealed box ) i can not recall if you can get 6 1/4 in with out cutting i was winning #1st in that car when i had it |
do not run 2oms for sq
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http://www.roadfly.com/bmw/gallery/index.php?path=26165,1;-64,6;
see where i have my ports i would do a box that looks lick a v when you look in where i have my ports /if you do what i did you need to cut the firewall that the seat is on |
Thanks so far zzzzzzzzz!!!
I think I'm on board with the 2 ohm thing as well. Just can't find a friggin nice ole school 4 channel Rodek!!!! :) Might go old school soundstream though. The current location of the 5.25's does sounds quite nice, you're right. I've got 4-10" JL's and I'm going to be removing the firewall where the ski bag pass through is just like you've mentioned for sure. I haven't decided on the arranagement of the subs yet though... Still trying to work that out as well. I'm running just 2 of the 10's right now. Just thought I would have to do something else up front when I get the other 2-10's installed. |
ok things i know about that car you have room to do 10"kicks in that car there is 6-8" of foam there
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If the sound is fine now then why mess with it ? If you feel the mids are lacking then the general plan would be to add midbass speakers; and it may be desirable (although not necassary) to increase your mid's crossover point at the same time.....
2ohms is fine for most amps especially at mid-high duty, and if you have a 2ch amp and want to add speakers there should not be a problem... the only hassel is that you don't have electronic xover control over the two speakers and will have to go passive for the midbass.... |
Originally Posted by Haunz
If the sound is fine now then why mess with it ?
going coax is not always a good idea..... even though they provides a single point source...... but they're not time aligned (as tweeter is a few inches ahead of the mid) I would suggest adding 6" midbass in the doors, but you'll need to run an active x-over (LR 24db/octave) with delays adjustments to work properly. and keep the speaker system above 4 ohms. |
Thanks for all the help so far...
I was hoping to hear someone sound off in favour of just a 6" mid bass driver as well :) In terms of the active crossover... I need a little help there. I've got a full x-over system in the deck but I'm guessing you're referring to an active x-over apart from that? Any model numbers and brands you might suggest? THanks again everyone. Keep the help coming!!!:smilie_da :appl: |
I think I've got a Sony XEC 1000 in the basement... is that what we're talking about?
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CLARION DRZ9255
amps (old school look) PPI Art Series ,Soundstream , |
This is a head unit no??? I've got an Eclipse 8445 which also has a parametric EQ etc so that's why I'm not sure if I need an active crossover.
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Have a look at the Audio Control products for a good crossover for this application.
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