MR2NR - Your PM box full? I sent you a message a few days ago.

 

pffft, that's crazy talk

I blame the school system. or at least the electrician school system.

MR2 - what if he has a half mammal/half robot hamster in the back that only needs food once a month?
also, you didn't ask ADHD what his hamster's name was, you should be more polite with our esteemed and papered guests.

 

OMG, not the papers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yes, the papers.....

All stand in awe of the papers

I call on this thread. OP is either naturally stunned or someone has a alter ego account looking for some action.

 

my vote is fake account.

although I did come across an electrician on RoE ~3 years ago who jumped in claiming to be an expert in all that is electrical.
he was shown to be just as clueless as this guy is. many LOLs were had.

 

If his setup is so unbelievably "wrong" then could some one explain the "proper" way to isolate a secondary battery? My current setup is a 1500W INVERTER run with #4 copper, fused at 125A. I also have a 400W amp run from the same #4, however it is always off while using the inverter. I want to run up to 1000W for less than 30 minutes with the vehicle off. The inverter displays kW currently being used, and i have not crossed 1000W, though it is a steady draw. No power spikes or breaks. Vehicle is a Jeep Liberty with stock alternator and battery.

 

That right there is the important stipulation. For this I would use a deep cycle second battery (like Optima yellow or blue top) and an isolating relay triggered by vehicle true ignititon (not accessory)

This way it charges with the car on but is isolated when off.

Of course if you aren't concerned with a little voltage drop, a standard battery isolator of sufficient size will work fine as well.